loving the Lowlands

We left Carlisle on a clear, crisp morning, briefly stopping at Gretna Green on our way to Dumfries. We spent some time looking around the town and discovered this magnificent bridge. The original wooden bridge was built around 1270 for Lady Devorgilla of Galloway. Replaced with a masonry structure in the 15th century, it was severely damaged by floods in 1621. The single Gothic arch at the western end was retained in the rebuild but the new arches are semicircular.

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Old Bridge House was built in 1660 by a barrel maker and served as an inn in the 1700s. It became a family home during the 1800s and was converted into two flats in the 1950s. The oldest house in Dumfries is now a museum.

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We drove the Galloway Scenic route to Ayr, immersed in the breathtaking scenery of the Scottish Lowlands.

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We continued north, following the Firth of Clyde. Under a misty sky, the Isle of Arran loomed out of the water.

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The village of Wemyss Bay is the departure point for ferries to the Isle of Bute. The Inverkip Power Station chimney, Scotland’s tallest free-standing structure at 237m no longer exists. The site was cleared for housing and the last thing to be demolished was the chimney in July 2013.

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Our destination was Greenock, Michael’s dad’s old stomping ground. The views across the Clyde were stunning.

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We found a lovely B&B in nearby Gourock and enjoyed a fabulous meal at The Spinnaker Hotel as night fell over Dunoon.

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soaring over Sydney

Sydney is my favourite Australian city. There is something stirring about the skyline, and the stunning harbour is a fascinating paradox of bustle and tranquility. Having admired the panorama from the top of the Harbour Bridge, we were eager to see more. What better way than from a helicopter? Our early morning flight departed from the heliport at Sydney airport and it wasn’t long before the magnificent bridge was in our sights.

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At Bennelong Point, the spectacular Sydney Opera House keeps company with Government House, next to the Royal Botanic Garden.

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We left the harbour behind

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as we made our way toward Manly and Sydney Heads.

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We turned south over Watsons Bay

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to take in the impressive eastern suburb beaches of Bondi,

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Tamarama and Bronte.

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Wedding Cake Island is just off the coast at Coogee Beach, the white water breaking over it gives the appearance of icing.

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Just after Maroubra Beach

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we left the coast and returned to the airport.

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Our first helicopter flight was a fabulous experience

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thanks to the guys at http://www.blueskyhelicopters.com

Cook

After two days of train travel, we were well and truly relaxed. The vastness of the Nullarbor Plain was boggling.

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On the longest straight stretch of railway line in the world (478 kilometres) we suddenly saw signs of life.

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We had arrived at the town of Cook, the last outpost before crossing into Western Australia.

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The street sign didn’t mention that Perth is 1,500km and Sydney nearly twice that distance.

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Established in 1917 when the railway was built, Cook was once a thriving town with a school, hospital, golf course and shops. The railways were privatised in 1997 and there is now a permanent population of four who remain to service the trains that pass through. We had some time to stroll around the town, the abandoned buildings are sadly neglected.

The houses

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had some interesting garden ornaments

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and the paths and parks had been maintained.

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These two old gaol cells didn’t look very comfortable,

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I think you would soon be deep fried in the desert heat

and the thunderbox looked a little worse for wear.

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In 1982, 600 trees were planted around the town, the event commemorated in stone.

There was more of Cook to discover but it was time to board the train and continue across the Nullarbor to Western Australia.

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Il Castagno

When looking for a place to stay for the week after the guitar course, I found a 700 year old farmhouse near Cortona. Seeing it on the internet I thought there was no way it could possibly be as good as it appeared. I was right. It was even better!

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The owners live in Colorado and bought the villa to restore in 1999. It was absolutely perfect and, as it was their part time home, it felt very welcoming. The living room,

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main bedroom

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and bathroom

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were upstairs and the natural beauty of the house was complemented by tasteful furnishings.

Some fine meals were created in the ground floor kitchen

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which opened on to the sunny courtyard.

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The original features outside had been retained

and the small front garden was colourful.

We enjoyed relaxing in the shade with a beverage after long days exploring,

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admiring the view

of Cortona, only a 10 minute drive away.

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The shafts of sunlight on this stormy evening lent a spectacular display.

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On other nights, the sinking sun set the sky on fire.

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We knew from the moment we arrived, it was going to be very hard to leave.

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Hadrian’s Wall

Leaving the beauty of Wales behind, we drove through the Lake District, stopping at Windermere to buy supplies.

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The weather was not conducive to sightseeing

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so we were soon on our way to Carlisle for a two night stay at New Pallyards Farm. The next day, we set off to discover Hadrian’s Wall. Built from 122AD, it was the northernmost boundary of the Roman Empire until early in the 5th century. There were many forts along the 80 miles between the Irish Sea and North Sea

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and the lookout at Greenhead rewarded with spectacular views across the countryside.

The section of wall at Walltown Crags was impressive

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as it snaked its way along Whin Sill

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a spectacular rock formation formed millions of years ago.

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The view down to the car park and the landscape beyond was stunning.

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We drove on to Housesteads Fort and climbed the hill

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to the Visitor’s Centre.

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Originally named Vercovicium, meaning ‘the place of the effective fighters’, Housesteads is the most complete Roman fort in Britain.

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The foundations include a hospital, barracks, granaries

and even flushable toilets.

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From the ridge, the most preserved part of the wall disappears into the distance

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and the remains of a gate can be seen.

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The panorama across Northumberland National Park was magnificent

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and the locals seemed very contented.

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We continued our drive to Newcastle,

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eager for a drop of the namesake brown ale. We were so disappointed to learn they don’t serve Newcastle Brown Ale on tap in Newcastle! We chose another brew and enjoyed a delicious lunch overlooking Tynemouth Bay

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and the majestic 13th century Castle & Priory.

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Unfortunately, the ruins were closed to visitors for the season so we returned to our cottage in Carlisle for another cosy night.