After a hectic first week staying in an apartment in North Adelaide, we were well and truly ready for a change of pace. Travelling north for an hour or so, we arrived at Tanunda in the heart of the Barossa Valley. Our stress ebbed away as we drove along the main street, brimming with beautiful heritage buildings housing cafés, restaurants, museums, galleries and, of course, pubs. We had booked to stay a few days at Tanunda Cottages on the outskirts of town.
There are three self-contained cottages which were purpose built in 1992 and when Grant and Helen Burge took over the operation in 2015, the original Winery Cottage on the neighbouring winery property was also offered for accommodation. Our self check-in to Cottage no.1 went without a hitch
and we were greeted by an immaculate sitting room, brimming with warm sunlight and cosy ambience. The unique Christmas tree in the corner added a delightful sparkle after dark.
The kitchen had everything we needed to cook a meal for ourselves and breakfast provisions were plentiful in the fridge.
At the end of the hallway, the main bedroom was very inviting
and next to it, an equally comfortable second bedroom.
The bathroom was spacious and spotless
with extra towels and eco-friendly toiletries.
Being the only occupants, we had the outdoor seating to ourselves to enjoy a vino or two on a hot afternoon.
We didn’t make use of the barbecue but it was a great space for alfresco dining.
Although situated on the main road, traffic noise was not noticeable and there were no close neighbours with the driveway to the Winery Cottage and gardens at the rear of the property.
Soon after starting our walk along Geelong waterfront, we spied a group of likely lads dressed in vintage bathing costumes and later learned they are part of the Bollard Trail. Over a hundred reclaimed timber pier pylons were transformed into quirky art installations in 1995 by artist Jan Mitchell. The bollards represent notable characters who played a part in Geelong’s history and culture. Not realising the significance at the time, I didn’t photograph many but have delved into the history of the few I captured.
The Geelong Baths Swimming Club were an integral part of the community during the Victorian and Edwardian eras. Well known for their colourful caps and club initials on their costumes, they helped bring a carnival atmosphere to the early Geelong regattas with such contests as greasy pole climbing, bun eating and tub races.
First formed in 1854, Geelong’s Volunteer Rifle Corps is the oldest Victorian Militia unit. The Volunteer Rifle Band played its first recital in the Botanic Gardens in 1861, promoting the popular dance music of the day with the ‘The Geelong Polka’.
I was actually photographing the Wharf Shed cafe (unfortunately booked out for lunch) and noticed the Tram Conductress on her smoko break. She is a bit of an enigma from the 1940s being a smoker, not wearing a wedding ring and knitting a bootee for a baby.
From the early 1800s, scallop fishermen sold their produce as far afield as Melbourne. Many boats dredged for scallops in Corio Bay until recently when it was stopped to prevent further damage to the seabed and other species of fish.
The Geelong Volunteer Fire Brigade was established in 1854 (it seems there was a lot of volunteering going on that year), coincidentally the same year the clipper ship ‘Lightning’ was built in the USA for a British firm. One of the fastest wooden ships ever built, it carried cargo and immigrants from England to Australia for the next fifteen years until it earned the accolade of being the worst shipping disaster in Geelong’s history. The ‘Lightning’ caught fire while docked and loading wool in the early hours of 31st October 1869 and the efforts of the volunteer firemen were in vain. The blazing ship was towed away from the wharf and eventually sunk with explosives, losing all cargo but no lives.
One of the much adored personalities of the town was Mrs De Carteret. Kitty was born in 1910 and was the proprietor of ‘La Cabine’ for thirty years where she was renowned for her fresh lemon squash. Apparently, the cafe did a roaring trade on Sunday mornings, refreshing those who had over imbibed the night before. The cafe closed after much popularity in the 1960s and 1970s and is now an office block. I found a photo of Kitty de Carteret whipping up a lemon drink behind the counter, I wonder if she would be flattered by her timber transformation.
From the book ” A day in the life of Victoria” 1983
Outside the Yacht Club, a lovely lady holds the trophy awarded to the winner of the first Geelong Regatta in 1858, an Irish chap called ‘Paddy from Cork’ in his boat ‘Fair Kiss of Fand’. Regattas had actually been held since 1844 but it was only after a conversation over a few drinks that money was put up for a trophy and it is now recognised as Victoria’s oldest sporting event. You may notice a rabbit clinging to the bottom of her frock. Ten pairs of rabbits are depicted lurking around the base of some of the bollards, representing the introduction of wild rabbits to Australia. They arrived on the aforementioned ‘Lightning’, courtesy of farmer Thomas Austin from England, on Christmas Day 1859.
Earlier that same year, the Geelong Football Club was formed, making it the second oldest AFL side after Melbourne and one of the oldest football clubs in the world. The navy blue and white kit hasn’t changed much in the last 165 years, although the shorts are noticeably shorter these days.
The Joy Ark Sandwich Board Man advertises the Joy Ark but he has lost his board. I found a photo with Board intact on waymarking.com
The Joy Ark was a silent picture theatre built in 1912 by two early Greek-Australian pioneers who already operated a cinema in Geelong. The construction extended over the water at Eastern Beach and was considered the most grandiose and unique movie theatre for its time in the British Commonwealth. Unfortunately, by early 1914, the owners were in financial trouble and filed for bankruptcy. The Joy Ark became a popular venue for dances and roller skating until it was demolished in the mid 1920s. The unusual name resulted from a competition run by the Geelong Advertiser asking readers to submit suggestions, the winner was rewarded with a ‘significant sum of money’. The site of the Joy Ark is now filled by a giant ferris wheel, it’s a shame the original building has been lost.
photo from Museums Victoria
Modelling the changing styles of men’s swimming trunks over the years is the Town Baths Swimmers Club. Not a budgie smuggler in sight.
Although frowned upon these days, bathing beauty competitions were a popular attraction from the 1930s. These lovely ladies are braving all weather – and the rascally rabbits.
Ian McDonald was the Engineer and Surveyor of Geelong City in 1936. He saw a need to promote Geelong by beautifying the bay waterfront area and, hence, designed the Eastern Beach complex which was completed in 1939. He is proudly holding the plans in his hand.
Another man with great vision for Geelong, Robert de Bruce Johnstone became a member of Geelong Town Council in 1859. He was elected mayor from 1865 to 1867 and became known as ‘the parks and gardens’ mayor for his lifetime support of the Geelong Botanic Gardens. His robes and chain of office are looking a little worse for wear and he has lost his pendant.
The chap second from the right in the line of Eastern Beach Lifesavers is a local icon called Bill Coyte. He is well remembered for giving his time to teach life saving and swimming to many generations of children.
I am pleased to report that the bollards are in the process of being restored. Those beyond repair are being reproduced using 3D printing and all are being re-painted by local artist Vicki Clissold who will replicate Jan Mitchell’s original work.
Every time we think we have completed our last ‘big project’, another one somehow appears on the list. The large decked area outside the lounge is exposed to the worst of our weather and the timbers have suffered over the years.
Having been advised that replacing it would improve saleability, we took up the challenge. Ekodeck was our material of choice, having used it for a previous project, high winds added a degree of difficulty to the delivery.
We had worked out that if we laid an end board, we could use the full 5.4 metre lengths for the rest and avoid extra trimming. The old boards were cut away to allow for that first board, fitted with precision around the upright posts.
While I set about demolishing the old step,
Michael extended the cut to avoid damaging the new board as we removed the old ones.
We both thought removing the old boards would be the easy part but it took a lot of effort to prise them off. Our concern that the joists and bearers may have needed replacing was, fortunately, unfounded.
More precision cutting
and the first of the long boards was laid.
We made our own joist tape out of concreters plastic (that, for some reason, we have a very large roll of). The cut strips were rolled up, secured with a clothes peg and unfurled as we progressed.
After removing a section of the old boards,
we started laying the new ones
and over the course of two days (working in the mornings only as it was too hot by midday), we were halfway there.
We didn’t remove all the old ones at the beginning because we had to keep the area covered so our nocturnal furry visitors didn’t go under the house and get sealed in. We continued in the same vein until we came to the last piece.
A bit of head scratching had preceded this point, going from Plan A to Plan D and finally settling on Plan A. More precision cutting
and a perfect result.
A new step up to the front decking was fashioned
and a smaller step down to the garden.
Now we have a few hours (days/weeks/months) of sanding and staining the uprights and balustrade as well as the facing boards. Then, eventually, staining the rest of the old deck. Then…….
Since relocating to Tasmania in 2008 and enduring a very rough crossing of Bass Strait on the Spirit of Tasmania, our subsequent return trips to Adelaide have been by air. We decided to take our vehicle with us on our most recent visit and, with much trepidation, booked a day sail from Devonport. After a relaxing eleven hours on calm seas, we arrived in Geelong for two nights before embarking on an eight hour drive to Adelaide. We ventured out for a stroll along the waterfront to discover the many attractions, from heritage structures to modern works of art. We first noticed a collection of objects, resembling shark-fins, randomly scattered on the foreshore. The art installation ‘North North’ comprises seven (only five pictured) 2 to 3.5 metre high cement fins, all positioned on a different plane.
The Floating Christmas Tree is an annual feature of the city, with the initial lighting on the night of ‘Carols By The Bay’ at the end of November. It didn’t look particularly bright on this overcast morning but the nightly Sound and Light Shows, running for 6 minutes every 15 minutes, are apparently quite spectacular.
We were a bit befuddled to see the Spirit of Tasmania moored in the harbour until we realised it is one of the new ships. Version IV is awaiting upgrades to the intended berth after it was discovered the wharf was not strong enough!
We set off across Steampacket Gardens, a lovely verdant open space named for the steamships that once docked in the area.
Following the path along the waters edge, we looked back at Cunningham Pier, stretching 250 metres into Corio Bay. Now commonly used as a fishermen’s pier, it was once part of the Geelong port system. The building at the end of the pier houses a restaurant and function centre.
We continued on, past the Royal Geelong Yacht Club marina and club rooms. Their first regatta ran in 1859 and they now host Australia’s largest regatta, the Festival of Sails.
For those unable to enjoy the walk, the Eastern Beach Train provides a 20 minute return trip along the waterfront
and the Giant Sky Wheel offers a different perspective.
Once past the yacht club,
the pathway bisects the white sands of Eastern Beach and the eye-aching green of Eastern Beach Reserve.
Much of the redevelopment of the east end of Eastern Beach was undertaken in the 1930s to promote tourism. The most striking addition is a huge swimming enclosure (I’ll get to that), a shallow children’s pool complete with fountain in the centre
and iconic ‘Spanish Steps’ rising to Eastern Beach Road above.
A classic red brick Art Deco building serves as a kiosk with a fine dining restaurant on the upper level.
Back to the swimming enclosure. A double platform wooden structure sweeps in a half circle around eight and a half acres of seawater. Protected by shark-proof netting, there is a lap pool, diving tower, floating islands and lifeguards on duty in high season.
The boardwalk was rejuvenated in 1993 and locals were encouraged to buy planks inscribed with their names to help fund the project.
The view westward from the promenade shows the extent of the waterfront precinct.
We returned to our starting point. I neglected to mention the glass building adjacent to the Christmas tree. It houses an original Armitage-Herschell steam-driven, hand carved wooden carousel with 36 horses and two ornate chariots. Built around 1892, it was purchased and restored in 1996. Unfortunately, we didn’t realise it’s importance and didn’t take a closer look which means we also missed the music from the 1898 Gavioli Band organ accompanying the ride.
With the skies becoming increasingly inclement, we left Cunningham Pier in search of lunch.
A leisurely way to experience the Tarkine Wilderness is to spend a few hours on the Pieman River aboard the heritage vessel, MV Arcadia II.
The 17 metre boat was built of Huon Pine in 1939 as a luxury pleasure craft based in Hobart. She was requisitioned to serve as a supply ship in New Guinea during the Second World War. Life became more peaceful as a scallop fishing boat on the east coast of Tasmania and then as a cruise boat on Macquarie Harbour and the Gordon River in 1961.
The Arcadia II has been cruising the Pieman River since 1970 and is the only Huon Pine river cruiser still operating anywhere in the world. A refurbishment in 2006 returned her to original pristine condition. I was hoping we had no need for the lifeboat.
We departed from Corinna at 10am on a moody, overcast morning.
Huon Pines dipped their pendulous foliage in the tannin hued water
as we rounded a bend, leaving Corinna behind .
The 434 metre peak of Mount Donaldson, part of the Norfolk Range, loomed in the distance
as we passed the confluence of the Savage River, ending its 71.7km journey.
A little further downstream, the Donaldson River also flows into the Pieman after a 54km course from its source.
We were hopeful for a sighting of the ever elusive platypus and, keeping our eyes peeled, we weren’t disappointed.
We would have missed the sea eagles nest if it hadn’t been pointed out by the skipper.
Enjoying the tranquility, we were served hot chocolate, cake and biscuits – what could be better?
As the skies cleared and the forest vegetation changed, we soon arrived at our destination.
Pieman Heads, where the Pieman River meets the Indian Ocean, marks the southern extremity of the Arthur-Pieman Conservation Area.
Breathing in the freshest air on Earth, we walked a few hundred metres from the boat and perched amongst the driftwood to savour our tasty packed lunch.
Strolling back an hour or so later, we came across an interesting structure. The Huon Pine timbers were recovered from the river in 2005 after spending forty years buried in silt and sand at the heads. They were part of the original Corinna barge, built in 1878, that transported prospectors, surveyors, livestock and general goods across the river using a cable and hand winch. From 1945, the barge plied up and down the river assisted by a power boat tied alongside. It’s life came to an end when, in 1964, it was washed away from its moorings in a flood and lost.
We returned to our more reliable form of transport
with nothing to do but relax and enjoy the ride.
The mysterious stairway along the river, not far downstream from Corinna, leads to Lovers Falls.
There is a shorter cruise on a smaller craft, (Sweetwater Cruise) that ties up at the stairs to enable a walk to the waterfall. The only other way to reach them is by kayak.
Arriving back at Corinna at 2.30pm, we had time for a short walk before bevvies and a delicious dinner at the hotel.
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