Stone Hut

Following our wonderfully relaxing sojourn in Tanunda, we took the rural idyll to the extreme. A few years ago, my brother-in-law and his partner escaped the rat race to establish an off-grid property in a tiny town with a population of 26 . After driving for two and half hours through mostly flat, barren countryside, we arrived at Stone Hut, named for the old stone cottage built on the banks of the Rocky River in the 1850s by stonemason Thomas Long. Originally a stopover for Cobb & Co mail coaches, the next twenty years saw the village, surveyed in 1874, become a bustling pioneer settlement. There is a lot of history at Stone Hut but not much bustle these days.

We had booked two nights at Stone Hut Cottages, adjacent to the famous bakery where, it is told, ‘visitors flock from miles to experience its delights’. We were so disappointed to find it was closed and, in a fine example of bad timing, re-opened under new management two weeks later. The cottages are scattered in a quiet bushland setting

and ours was very comfortable, spacious and well-equipped.

There are no convenience stores at Stone Hut but the town of Laura (population 552) is only 9km south and Wirrabara (population 353) the same distance to the north. Lunch at The Old Bakery in Wirrabara made up for our earlier dismay along with the discovery of a spectacular work of art painted on silos. To create a new tourist attraction for the town, the state Government offered an $80,000 grant to rejuvenate the non-operational silos, create a viewing area, car park, signage and lighting. In October 2018, Australian street artist Sam Bates (a.k.a. SMUG) created the forestry themed painting in twenty days.

On a side note, when we drove from Geelong to Adelaide we stopped at a town called Kaniva to find a spot to eat our packed lunch. A shaded picnic table was perfect, with a beautiful backdrop of another painted silo. This one celebrates the plants and birds of Little Desert National Park in Victoria and was completed by artist David Lee Pereira in October 2020.

Back to Stone Hut. A post-prandial walk was just the thing to counteract the bakery lunch before an evening indulgence of home-made pizza and beverages. We climbed the dirt road to Mariette’s Lookout, passing aged trees existing symbiotically with a younger generation.

I haven’t been able to find out who Mariette was, presumably a former resident of the town.

The views are expansive but at that time of year, the scenery was not particularly colourful. Being cropping and grazing country, the palette changes with the seasons ( I have seen photos of verdant pastures – really!)

A final attempt at a panorama before wine time called.

The Big Tree

A visit to Dip Falls in northwest Tasmania isn’t complete without venturing a further kilometre up the road to experience The Big Tree. At the end of a short walk down a well defined track

surrounded by eucalypt forest and towering manferns

was most certainly a big tree.

The Browntop stringybark, formally known as Eucalyptus obliqua, is not especially tall at 62 metres, considering the species can reach heights of 90 metres. However, the circumference at the base is an impressive and unusually large 16 metres.

There used to be a boardwalk around the base for a close up inspection, I don’t know when or why it was removed.

The tree is estimated to be around 400 years old and it now has large holes and hollow cavities in it’s trunk.

Once it becomes unsafe it will, sadly, be cut down and laid to rest among fallen friends.

bonza blackberries

After many years exposed to the Tasmanian elements, the timber edging along our blackberry patch was starting to crumble. We had erected a temporary protective net that we have been meaning to upgrade for the same number of years.

Last winter, we purchased a couple of garden tunnels and finally got around to it. The new edging was laid with space to allow for the depth of the new covers

followed by plastic to discourage weeds and grass growth.

We filled in with soil

and a hefty layer of mulch.

Job done!

Or not. Our measurements hadn’t allowed for the 100mm skirt around the base of the covers. Back to the drawing board. We moved the edging another 200mm

and repeated the filling process. A new frame was added to support the training wires and the first cover fit like a glove.

With both tunnels in place

the canes were fixed to the wires, ready for some warmer weather.

We had a bumper crop this year, a few kilos of berries still being harvested at the end of April.

Old Telegraph Hill

There are a few ways to experience the Tarkine Wilderness while staying at Corinna and the Old Telegraph Hill walk is one of them. The beginning of the 1.5 kilometre walk is easy going along a boardwalk through typical Tasmanian rainforest. Towering trees shelter luscious lichens and tannin stained streams.

Fifty metres along, the walkway ends and the trail becomes a little less obvious.

The old cable line reassured us we were on the right track.

Someone has thoughtfully fashioned a stile of sorts to help negotiate the huge body of a fallen hero.

We continued to climb, surrounded by ancient myrtles and leatherwoods

playing host to myriad fungi and lichen.

With feet slipping at all angles along the twisted track

we came across a series of dangling cables and a lone telegraph pole.

The step ladder and aerial confirmed our suspicion that this was our destination.

We had read that there was a chance of getting a signal at this point, although it was hit and miss. With some minor acrobatics we were rewarded.

We had a poke around and found some remnants of long abandoned equipment

before retracing our steps and following the cable downhill.

Toward the end of the boardwalk section, we noticed evidence of burrowing freshwater crayfish. They live in tunnel systems in muddy banks and seepages, rarely venturing out and they construct ‘chimneys’ made from balls of mud at the entrance to their burrows.

Time to warm up with a beverage by the fire.

Dip Falls

We have been to the town of Stanley on many occasions, it is one of the ‘go to’ places to take visitors. The signpost on the highway to Dip Falls, 27km inland, has always intrigued me but time has been our limiting factor in the past. We decided to stay overnight on our latest trip which gave us the opportunity for a detour and picnic lunch. The peaceful drive through picturesque farmland was on a mostly sealed road with the last few kilometres unsealed but well maintained. We chose to view the falls from below first, the initial impression on our descent held promise of something spectacular.

The stairs are steep but easily traversed (with a rest or two on the ascent).

The roar of the tumbling water and further glimpses through the foliage spurred us on.

The wonder that awaited us was breathtaking.

In the absence of a very wide angle lens, I resorted to photographing sections of the falls as the two tiers dropped thirty metres over distinctive dolerite columns.

The tranquility downstream belied the tempest of the falls mere metres away.

At the top of the falls, the serene waters were idyllically unaware of their impending adventure.

Even from the lookout, the extent of the vista demanded serial photographs.

Dip River was once a working forest and during the 1920s, the small community of three houses endured isolation and hardship to manage the sawmill. Not far from the top of the falls, remnants of an old boiler that provided steam to power the sawmill, lies as a reminder of Tasmania’s timber heritage.