Tag Archives: travel

Fossil Bluff

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My first visit to Fossil Bluff at Wynyard in 2009 was a little disappointing. The tide was in and, although the sandstone cliff was spectacular and scenery stunning, I didn’t see any evidence of fossils.

More recently, we arrived at low tide to find the expansive beach of Freestone Cove with Fossil Bluff looming to the east

and Table Cape to the west.

We wandered among rocks, weathered and worn smooth by the incessant ebb and flow of the tide.

Fossil Bluff was created 275 million years ago by a tidewater glacier. The 25 metre sandstone cliffs are strewn with fossils, including the remains of the oldest marsupial found in Australia named Wynyardia bassiana in honour of the town.

The grey rock at the base of the cliff is Wynyard Tillite, deposited by the glacier between 303 and 293 million years ago while Australia was part of the super continent called Gondwana. Fossil Bluff sits on top of the tillite and it is clear to see where the sandstone and tillite meet.

It wasn’t long before I spied a plethora of trilobites emerging from rock. One of the earliest known groups of arthropods, trilobites became extinct about 252 million years ago after existing in oceans for 270 million years.

Myriad shells of varying shapes and sizes decorate every surface

along with ancient ancestors of the turritella sea snails.

Nature’s artwork surrounded us,

and with a little imagination, an ossified whale and porpoise.

A lone slab of tessellated rock seemed out of place among its gnarly neighbours.

I was wondering why my niece was so interested in photographing this particular rock formation

until she showed me what she had captured. I stole her idea.

Ginza Miyako

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Japanese food is one of Michael’s favourites, unfortunately it is something of a rarity in Tasmania and so, we relished the opportunity to dine at the highly recommended Ginza Miyako while in Adelaide. The menu is described as a blend of Japanese cuisine with French influence, using fresh South Australian produce to highlight the flavours of Japan with French cooking techniques. For those unable or unwilling to sit on the floor, there is a generous western style seating area. We opted for the traditional style seating, separated from two private function areas by elegant Shoji screens.

We abandoned our shoes at the door where  a row of ‘slip-ons’ awaited to wear for the inevitable trip to the bathroom. The attentive ladies, dressed in delicate traditional garb, advised us on our selection of dishes and promptly delivered two flasks of Sake, one warm and one cold.

Beautifully presented entrées arrived on shared platters. Pork Gyoza and Wagyu Beef Carpaccio with citrusy homemade ponzu dressing and umami sesame aioli.

Chicken Karaage, deep fried Japanese style

and a stunningly vibrant Sashimi Platter.

Nearly thirty years ago, I first tasted eel at another Japanese restaurant in Adelaide and was instantly smitten. For main course, I couldn’t resist Unagi Don – grilled eel with yakiniku sauce and delicious accompaniments.

The 300g Wagyu Beef Scotch Fillet satisfied our steak loving friend

while the Teriyaki King Salmon Bento with Miso Soup was equally as colourful as it was delectable.

None of us had room for dessert, maybe next time.

Point Kean

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After feeding the farm animals at Wacky Stays, we drove to the Kaikoura Peninsula to visit the Point Kean seal colony. The view was spectacular looking back towards Kaikoura township and Armers Beach with the Seaward Kaikoura Range in the distance.

Major coastal uplift during the devastating earthquake of 2016 means areas of Point Kean Reef that were once the seabed are now visible. Kaikoura Peninsula sits right on the fault line that bisects the South Island of New Zealand. Not only did the ocean bed rise by up to two metres, the Seaward Kaikoura’s are some of the fastest growing mountains in the world.

While busily scanning the rocks for a glimpse of the seals

we almost missed the one basking right by our feet.

The New Zealand fur seal, known as kekeno in the Māori language, is smaller and darker in colour than its Australian cousin. Decimated by commercial sealing in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, numbers have now recovered and continue to increase.

We explored more of the reef

before climbing the steep incline to Point Kean Lookout .

The stunning coastline and fascinating rock formations can really be appreciated from the lofty vantage point.

There are further walking trails along the clifftops we would have liked to follow but with evening approaching, it was time to seek out some fish’n’chips.

Grünthal

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We have many fond memories of times spent in Grumpy’s Brewhaus at Verdun in the Adelaide Hills, not least the evening of our farewell in November 2008 before relocating to Tasmania. Tragically, fire gutted the restaurant in 2016 and, although the brewery survived, it was the end of Grumpy’s. The site remained undeveloped for nearly five years until new owners realised their vision for the historic venue.

While in Adelaide recently, we visited the new incarnation, Grünthal, the name given to Verdun by the original Prussian settlers meaning Green Valley. The expansive restaurant space offers a variety of seating options as well as a conservatory for private functions.

Saul and Sheree Sullivan already had years of experience creating specialty cheeses at their Udder Delights factory, also in the Adelaide Hills, before Saul decided to try his hand at the art of beer brewing. A wondrous display of local smallgoods, patés, terrines, crackers, honeys and delicious produce greeted us at the door.

Complimentary cheese tastings are offered daily and despite a looming lunch engagement elsewhere, we couldn’t resist a nibble and chat.

For those not enamoured with the amber brew, a comprehensive range of colourfully labelled Hesketh Wines are available at the bar. The family owned winery sources fruit from premium South Australian wine estates, making the most of the individual strengths of different growing regions.

While Sheree works with an offsite distiller to produce Grünthal gins,

Saul’s dedication in the brewery can be found on tap.

We selected a tasting paddle (with driving duty, I restricted myself to a small stout) and made ourselves comfortable.

While Michael finished his breakfast, I wandered outside to peruse the grounds and outdoor seating options.

I’m so pleased we were introduced to Grünthal, they have done Grumpy’s proud.

Wacky Stays

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I’ve always wanted to stay in a yurt and the opportunity to realise my dream arose in Kaikoura. I  stumbled upon Wacky Stays when searching for accommodation and, though tempted by the other five unique offerings on the property, I snapped up the yurt. It was obvious on arrival at the farm that this was going to be a memorable stay.

Our friendly host, Kevin, greeted us and showed us to our comfy nook and adjacent private bathroom.

The seven-metre Mongolian yurt was spacious and comfortable and could easily house a family.

The bathroom and fully-equipped outdoor kitchen had all we could need.

Each afternoon, guests are invited to join in the hand-feeding of the farm animals. Of course, we couldn’t resist that.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have the time to experience a llama trek but it would have been amazing to enjoy a walk with these majestic creatures.

The pigs were very entertaining

while the ducks and sheep had a little more decorum.

After finishing off the greens, some filled up on hay,

others preferred a snooze.

I’m pleased we had our own bathroom.

Our nearest neighbour was a 1940’s Bedford K series truck that has been converted to a Gypsy Caravan. There is a double bed above the driver’s cab, kitchen, lounge (with flat-screen TV) and onboard bathroom facilities.

On the far side of the truck, the restored Train Carriage, crafted from hardwood in 1889, has two bedrooms and everything needed for a self-catering holiday.

In a more secluded spot, the Colonial Wagon is perfect for a romantic getaway, with a super-king bed, cosy lounge area and outdoor kitchen.

A sleepout with two bunk beds provides combined accommodation for up to four guests.

Panoramic views of Mount Fyffe can be enjoyed from the outdoor bath.

There is also a lovingly restored Farmers Cottage and seven-metre wide Teepee on the property, perhaps we will investigate next time. Kaikoura is well known for its delectable fish’n’chips and we indulged, take-away style, with a bottle of Marlborough Pinot Gris to commiserate our wonderful holiday coming to an end.

The next day, early morning rays of Sol highlighted our peaceful surroundings

as our toast went up in flames due to an unforeseen gas leak. A fitting end to the aforementioned memorable stay.