Fossil Bluff

My first visit to Fossil Bluff at Wynyard in 2009 was a little disappointing. The tide was in and, although the sandstone cliff was spectacular and scenery stunning, I didn’t see any evidence of fossils.

More recently, we arrived at low tide to find the expansive beach of Freestone Cove with Fossil Bluff looming to the east

and Table Cape to the west.

We wandered among rocks, weathered and worn smooth by the incessant ebb and flow of the tide.

Fossil Bluff was created 275 million years ago by a tidewater glacier. The 25 metre sandstone cliffs are strewn with fossils, including the remains of the oldest marsupial found in Australia named Wynyardia bassiana in honour of the town.

The grey rock at the base of the cliff is Wynyard Tillite, deposited by the glacier between 303 and 293 million years ago while Australia was part of the super continent called Gondwana. Fossil Bluff sits on top of the tillite and it is clear to see where the sandstone and tillite meet.

It wasn’t long before I spied a plethora of trilobites emerging from rock. One of the earliest known groups of arthropods, trilobites became extinct about 252 million years ago after existing in oceans for 270 million years.

Myriad shells of varying shapes and sizes decorate every surface

along with ancient ancestors of the turritella sea snails.

Nature’s artwork surrounded us,

and with a little imagination, an ossified whale and porpoise.

A lone slab of tessellated rock seemed out of place among its gnarly neighbours.

I was wondering why my niece was so interested in photographing this particular rock formation

until she showed me what she had captured. I stole her idea.

devilish dining

The Tasmanian Devil may not fit the ideal impression of cute and cuddly but I think they have a certain appeal. A recent visit to Wings Wildlife Park confirmed my notion and, watching them lazing in the sunshine, I would go as far as saying they are adorable.

The glossy dark fur is marked with a characteristic white stripe across the chest and sometimes across the rump.

The largest carnivorous marsupials in the world, the devils powerful jaws and teeth enable them to devour every scrap of their food, including bones and fur.

The Devil Facial Tumour Disease, first recorded in 1996, decimated the devil population and a large network of captive breeding programmes was established in the early 2000s. The contagious cancers were transmitted through biting during the fierce competition for food. Facial scarring is not unusual from the frenzied activity.

Peace was about to be shattered

as a meerkat impersonator spotted the arrival of lunch.

There is nothing quite like a succulent wallaby leg to elicit the grunts and growls that have earned the Tasmanian Devils their reputation for being aggressive.

They seemed to understand the concept of sharing for a while

before breaking a large enough morsel to enjoy in private.

Point Kean

After feeding the farm animals at Wacky Stays, we drove to the Kaikoura Peninsula to visit the Point Kean seal colony. The view was spectacular looking back towards Kaikoura township and Armers Beach with the Seaward Kaikoura Range in the distance.

Major coastal uplift during the devastating earthquake of 2016 means areas of Point Kean Reef that were once the seabed are now visible. Kaikoura Peninsula sits right on the fault line that bisects the South Island of New Zealand. Not only did the ocean bed rise by up to two metres, the Seaward Kaikoura’s are some of the fastest growing mountains in the world.

While busily scanning the rocks for a glimpse of the seals

we almost missed the one basking right by our feet.

The New Zealand fur seal, known as kekeno in the Māori language, is smaller and darker in colour than its Australian cousin. Decimated by commercial sealing in the late 18th and early 19th centuries, numbers have now recovered and continue to increase.

We explored more of the reef

before climbing the steep incline to Point Kean Lookout .

The stunning coastline and fascinating rock formations can really be appreciated from the lofty vantage point.

There are further walking trails along the clifftops we would have liked to follow but with evening approaching, it was time to seek out some fish’n’chips.

Wacky Stays

I’ve always wanted to stay in a yurt and the opportunity to realise my dream arose in Kaikoura. I  stumbled upon Wacky Stays when searching for accommodation and, though tempted by the other five unique offerings on the property, I snapped up the yurt. It was obvious on arrival at the farm that this was going to be a memorable stay.

Our friendly host, Kevin, greeted us and showed us to our comfy nook and adjacent private bathroom.

The seven-metre Mongolian yurt was spacious and comfortable and could easily house a family.

The bathroom and fully-equipped outdoor kitchen had all we could need.

Each afternoon, guests are invited to join in the hand-feeding of the farm animals. Of course, we couldn’t resist that.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have the time to experience a llama trek but it would have been amazing to enjoy a walk with these majestic creatures.

The pigs were very entertaining

while the ducks and sheep had a little more decorum.

After finishing off the greens, some filled up on hay,

others preferred a snooze.

I’m pleased we had our own bathroom.

Our nearest neighbour was a 1940’s Bedford K series truck that has been converted to a Gypsy Caravan. There is a double bed above the driver’s cab, kitchen, lounge (with flat-screen TV) and onboard bathroom facilities.

On the far side of the truck, the restored Train Carriage, crafted from hardwood in 1889, has two bedrooms and everything needed for a self-catering holiday.

In a more secluded spot, the Colonial Wagon is perfect for a romantic getaway, with a super-king bed, cosy lounge area and outdoor kitchen.

A sleepout with two bunk beds provides combined accommodation for up to four guests.

Panoramic views of Mount Fyffe can be enjoyed from the outdoor bath.

There is also a lovingly restored Farmers Cottage and seven-metre wide Teepee on the property, perhaps we will investigate next time. Kaikoura is well known for its delectable fish’n’chips and we indulged, take-away style, with a bottle of Marlborough Pinot Gris to commiserate our wonderful holiday coming to an end.

The next day, early morning rays of Sol highlighted our peaceful surroundings

as our toast went up in flames due to an unforeseen gas leak. A fitting end to the aforementioned memorable stay.

The Store

We were looking forward to exploring Marlborough wine country on our way to Blenheim but, sadly, early morning is not the time for winery visits. We indulged instead in a leisurely coffee and cake stop somewhere amidst the eye popping countryside. Another hour down the road, we came across The Store at Kēkerengū, perfect timing for lunch.

First established in 1994 as a tearooms and garage, The Store was transformed twenty years ago into the restaurant, café and gift shop it is today. There are options for indoor and outdoor dining

and a stroll around the grounds revealed a thriving kitchen garden.

Despite the overcast skies, we opted for a seat in the fresh air at the top of the stairs,

with a front row view of the Pacific Ocean and resident seals preening on the sand.

Beachfront campsites are available with mountain views and secluded bays from which to enjoy East Coast sunrises.

Tempting though it was to partake in a stroll along the beach

or a short post-prandial nap,

it was time to continue the journey to our next destination, Kaikōura.