Stone Hut

Following our wonderfully relaxing sojourn in Tanunda, we took the rural idyll to the extreme. A few years ago, my brother-in-law and his partner escaped the rat race to establish an off-grid property in a tiny town with a population of 26 . After driving for two and half hours through mostly flat, barren countryside, we arrived at Stone Hut, named for the old stone cottage built on the banks of the Rocky River in the 1850s by stonemason Thomas Long. Originally a stopover for Cobb & Co mail coaches, the next twenty years saw the village, surveyed in 1874, become a bustling pioneer settlement. There is a lot of history at Stone Hut but not much bustle these days.

We had booked two nights at Stone Hut Cottages, adjacent to the famous bakery where, it is told, ‘visitors flock from miles to experience its delights’. We were so disappointed to find it was closed and, in a fine example of bad timing, re-opened under new management two weeks later. The cottages are scattered in a quiet bushland setting

and ours was very comfortable, spacious and well-equipped.

There are no convenience stores at Stone Hut but the town of Laura (population 552) is only 9km south and Wirrabara (population 353) the same distance to the north. Lunch at The Old Bakery in Wirrabara made up for our earlier dismay along with the discovery of a spectacular work of art painted on silos. To create a new tourist attraction for the town, the state Government offered an $80,000 grant to rejuvenate the non-operational silos, create a viewing area, car park, signage and lighting. In October 2018, Australian street artist Sam Bates (a.k.a. SMUG) created the forestry themed painting in twenty days.

On a side note, when we drove from Geelong to Adelaide we stopped at a town called Kaniva to find a spot to eat our packed lunch. A shaded picnic table was perfect, with a beautiful backdrop of another painted silo. This one celebrates the plants and birds of Little Desert National Park in Victoria and was completed by artist David Lee Pereira in October 2020.

Back to Stone Hut. A post-prandial walk was just the thing to counteract the bakery lunch before an evening indulgence of home-made pizza and beverages. We climbed the dirt road to Mariette’s Lookout, passing aged trees existing symbiotically with a younger generation.

I haven’t been able to find out who Mariette was, presumably a former resident of the town.

The views are expansive but at that time of year, the scenery was not particularly colourful. Being cropping and grazing country, the palette changes with the seasons ( I have seen photos of verdant pastures – really!)

A final attempt at a panorama before wine time called.

Tanunda Cottages

After a hectic first week staying in an apartment in North Adelaide, we were well and truly ready for a change of pace. Travelling north for an hour or so, we arrived at Tanunda in the heart of the Barossa Valley. Our stress ebbed away as we drove along the main street, brimming with beautiful heritage buildings housing cafés, restaurants, museums, galleries and, of course, pubs. We had booked to stay a few days at Tanunda Cottages on the outskirts of town.

There are three self-contained cottages which were purpose built in 1992 and when Grant and Helen Burge took over the operation in 2015, the original Winery Cottage on the neighbouring winery property was also offered for accommodation. Our self check-in to Cottage no.1 went without a hitch

and we were greeted by an immaculate sitting room, brimming with warm sunlight and cosy ambience. The unique Christmas tree in the corner added a delightful sparkle after dark.

The kitchen had everything we needed to cook a meal for ourselves and breakfast provisions were plentiful in the fridge.

At the end of the hallway, the main bedroom was very inviting

and next to it, an equally comfortable second bedroom.

The bathroom was spacious and spotless

with extra towels and eco-friendly toiletries.

Being the only occupants, we had the outdoor seating to ourselves to enjoy a vino or two on a hot afternoon.

We didn’t make use of the barbecue but it was a great space for alfresco dining.

Although situated on the main road, traffic noise was not noticeable and there were no close neighbours with the driveway to the Winery Cottage and gardens at the rear of the property.

Corinna

We recently ticked another item off our bucket list with a short stay at Corinna on the west coast of Tasmania. The gold rush of the early 1880s brought a flood of people to the area and Corinna was proclaimed a town in 1894 with a population of 2500. Within a few years, the gold deposits that could be easily worked were exhausted and the town declined in population when the Emu Bay railway to Zeehan was opened in 1900. The historic mining town is now a wilderness retreat set on three hectares surrounded by the Tarkine rainforest. The owners have restored and developed the buildings in heritage style to create a village atmosphere. We enjoyed a very comfortable three nights in “Hobbs” cottage.

Named in honour of explorer James Hobbs who led a party to the west coast of Van Diemen’s Land in early 1824, our level of comfort far exceeded that of poor Hobbs. I am always prepared that photos on property websites are more enticing than in reality but we weren’t disappointed. The open plan living space downstairs

and bedrooms upstairs

were even better than anticipated and the gas heater warmed the whole area without effort. The rainforest embraced the spacious back deck

and the front verandah was the perfect spot to share a platter and bottle.

We were happy to share our food with the locals, especially when one had a baby on board.

Corinna is totally off grid with solar power, rain and bore water and chemical free sewage treatment. Cooking, hot water and heating are powered by gas cylinders. Visitors are requested to take any rubbish with them when they leave, not a big ask to maintain the pristine environment. After settling in, a stroll around the village revealed remnants of times past.

The old butcher’s shop is now guest accommodation.

A light drizzle accompanied us as we wandered to the Pieman River at the edge of the property.

For those arriving at or leaving Corinna in a southerly direction, the Fatman Barge takes five minutes to cross the 130 metres to the other side of the river. It is the only cable driven vehicular barge remaining in Tasmania.

Although the cottage was equipped for self-catering, the Tannin Restaurant in the on-site Tarkine Hotel has a mouthwatering menu.

After a days adventure we would amble to the Ahrberg Bar and take up residence on the squidgy Chesterfield with a pre dinner beverage.

Moving on to the dining area, the meals were superb, all prepared using fresh Tasmanian produce. The only down side was, I didn’t have any room for the desserts on offer.

With no TV or Wi-fi (a blessing) it was back to the cottage for board games and bed.

Wacky Stays

I’ve always wanted to stay in a yurt and the opportunity to realise my dream arose in Kaikoura. I  stumbled upon Wacky Stays when searching for accommodation and, though tempted by the other five unique offerings on the property, I snapped up the yurt. It was obvious on arrival at the farm that this was going to be a memorable stay.

Our friendly host, Kevin, greeted us and showed us to our comfy nook and adjacent private bathroom.

The seven-metre Mongolian yurt was spacious and comfortable and could easily house a family.

The bathroom and fully-equipped outdoor kitchen had all we could need.

Each afternoon, guests are invited to join in the hand-feeding of the farm animals. Of course, we couldn’t resist that.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have the time to experience a llama trek but it would have been amazing to enjoy a walk with these majestic creatures.

The pigs were very entertaining

while the ducks and sheep had a little more decorum.

After finishing off the greens, some filled up on hay,

others preferred a snooze.

I’m pleased we had our own bathroom.

Our nearest neighbour was a 1940’s Bedford K series truck that has been converted to a Gypsy Caravan. There is a double bed above the driver’s cab, kitchen, lounge (with flat-screen TV) and onboard bathroom facilities.

On the far side of the truck, the restored Train Carriage, crafted from hardwood in 1889, has two bedrooms and everything needed for a self-catering holiday.

In a more secluded spot, the Colonial Wagon is perfect for a romantic getaway, with a super-king bed, cosy lounge area and outdoor kitchen.

A sleepout with two bunk beds provides combined accommodation for up to four guests.

Panoramic views of Mount Fyffe can be enjoyed from the outdoor bath.

There is also a lovingly restored Farmers Cottage and seven-metre wide Teepee on the property, perhaps we will investigate next time. Kaikoura is well known for its delectable fish’n’chips and we indulged, take-away style, with a bottle of Marlborough Pinot Gris to commiserate our wonderful holiday coming to an end.

The next day, early morning rays of Sol highlighted our peaceful surroundings

as our toast went up in flames due to an unforeseen gas leak. A fitting end to the aforementioned memorable stay.

Nelson

One of the reasons we included Nelson on our New Zealand itinerary was to visit the workshop of Jens Hansen, a must for any true fan of The Lord of the Rings.

Danish-born Jens moved to Auckland in 1952 and, after completing a jewellers apprenticeship, settled in Nelson with his wife and young son in 1968. He knew and loved The Lord of the Rings and was thrilled when approached, in March 1999, to design the fabled ring. Fifteen prototypes were submitted from which the final ‘movie ring’ was chosen. Forty variations of The One Ring were made for the filming, scaled for different scenes and sized to fit Hobbit or human fingers. Then there is the 8” version seen spinning and turning through the air in the prologue of the first film.

Sadly, Jens was diagnosed with cancer in 1999 and died in August the same year at the age of 59, never seeing his rings on screen. His legacy continues under the guidance of his sons and a remarkable team at the workshop.

Having made a very special purchase, we drove a few minutes out of town to the Grand Mercure Monaco Resort, our home for the next two nights.

Reminiscent of an English countryside village, the resort offers a range of accommodation from self-contained two bedroom cottages

to boutique hotel rooms. We had a stunning view of the Monaco Peninsula.

The guest lounge was cosy and comfortable

and we enjoyed a delicious dinner, as well as breakfasts, at the restaurant.

The grounds have been set up beautifully, with a peaceful lake enticing a variety of birdlife.

A short stroll down the road, The Honest Lawyer, exuding the charm of an English country pub, was the perfect spot to imbibe a pint of Guinness in the afternoon sun.

Perusing the menu, we decided to stay for dinner before a slow walk home as the sun was setting in spectacular fashion.

The next morning dawned crisp and clear, another day of adventures awaited.