Pieman River

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A leisurely way to experience the Tarkine Wilderness is to spend a few hours on the Pieman River aboard the heritage vessel, MV Arcadia II.

The 17 metre boat was built of Huon Pine in 1939 as a luxury pleasure craft based in Hobart. She was requisitioned to serve as a supply ship in New Guinea during the Second World War. Life became more peaceful as a scallop fishing boat on the east coast of Tasmania and then as a cruise boat on Macquarie Harbour and the Gordon River in 1961.

The Arcadia II has been cruising the Pieman River since 1970 and is the only Huon Pine river cruiser still operating anywhere in the world. A refurbishment in 2006 returned her to original pristine condition. I was hoping we had no need for the lifeboat.

We departed from Corinna at 10am on a moody, overcast morning.

Huon Pines dipped their pendulous foliage in the tannin hued water

as we rounded a bend, leaving Corinna behind .

The 434 metre peak of Mount Donaldson, part of the Norfolk Range, loomed in the distance

as we passed the confluence of the Savage River, ending its 71.7km journey.

A little further downstream, the Donaldson River also flows into the Pieman after a 54km course from its source.

We were hopeful for a sighting of the ever elusive platypus and, keeping our eyes peeled, we weren’t disappointed.

We would have missed the sea eagles nest if it hadn’t been pointed out by the skipper.

Enjoying the tranquility, we were served hot chocolate, cake and biscuits – what could be better?

As the skies cleared and the forest vegetation changed, we soon arrived at our destination.

Pieman Heads, where the Pieman River meets the Indian Ocean, marks the southern extremity of the Arthur-Pieman Conservation Area.

Breathing in the freshest air on Earth, we walked a few hundred metres from the boat and perched amongst the driftwood to savour our tasty packed lunch.

Strolling back an hour or so later, we came across an interesting structure. The Huon Pine timbers were recovered from the river in 2005 after spending forty years buried in silt and sand at the heads. They were part of the original Corinna barge, built in 1878, that transported prospectors, surveyors, livestock and general goods across the river using a cable and hand winch. From 1945, the barge plied up and down the river assisted by a power boat tied alongside. It’s life came to an end when, in 1964, it was washed away from its moorings in a flood and lost.

We returned to our more reliable form of transport

with nothing to do but relax and enjoy the ride.

The mysterious stairway along the river, not far downstream from Corinna, leads to Lovers Falls.

There is a shorter cruise on a smaller craft, (Sweetwater Cruise) that ties up at the stairs to enable a walk to the waterfall. The only other way to reach them is by kayak.

Arriving back at Corinna at 2.30pm, we had time for a short walk before bevvies and a delicious dinner at the hotel.

tin roof, rusted

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Another project that had been on the ‘to do’ list for a while was completed earlier this year. For some reason, half of the roof on the garage/workshop is clad in colorbond but the other half revealed itself over time to be painted galvanised sheets. As expected, the paint has deteriorated and the rusting eyesore had to go.

The builders were happy to accept our offer of labour to reduce the hours spent (and the dollars). On a sunny, windless day the project began. The new sheets were laid out on the lawn a few at a time

and after a crash course, I set about bending one end of the sheets to fit under the ridge cap.

Meanwhile, the old ones were removed and handed down to us, we handed up the new ones to the roofers and relocated the old ones to a stack out of sight (they have since been collected for recycling).

It wasn’t long before our well oiled machine saw results.

At this point, I reported that there were only eight sheets left and pondered whether there was enough to finish the job. A bit of head scratching and re-measuring found us one sheet short.

We quickly came up with a Plan B, deciding to use a sheet of polycarbonate to align with the workbench below and allow for natural light into the space. A gap was left

and work continued on the rest of the roof.

Lunch break was used to pick up the sheet of poly which slotted in perfectly. With the ridge cap in place

and fascias attached, we still had time to enjoy a beer together and admire our work.

Philosopher Falls Walk

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Having read some horror reviews of the condition of the road from Waratah to Corinna, we had no idea how long the drive would take, especially as some roads were still closed following heavy spring rains. We deliberated a diversion to explore Philosopher Falls, named after explorer James ‘Philosopher’ Smith who discovered the waterfall in 1871. Setting ourselves a time limit, we ventured along the trail

and were soon embraced by towering myrtles and sassafras trees.

Verdant ferns and mosses carpeted the ground beneath the canopy.

Suddenly, the thick forest transformed and an area of tall, spindly trees flanked the path.

As the canopy closed in again,

we were entranced by vibrant fungi, coloured courtesy of nature’s palette.

We came to a footbridge spanning a flowing creek, a tributary to the Arthur River, and made the decision to turn back.

Had we continued, we would have walked the track that follows an old water race built to supply Magnet Mine in the early 1900s. Eventually, a 210-step staircase leads to a view from the bottom of the multi-tiered waterfall. We will have to return one day when we have no time constraints.

Moonlight Stories

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Atop Table Cape, an extinct volcano rising 180 metres above the ocean in northwest Tasmania, is a heritage listed lighthouse. Each weekend evening throughout the month of July, the structure becomes the centrepiece for a stunning visual and auditory light experience.

Moonlight Stories is one of a series of events, collectively known as Permission to Trespass, presented during our Tasmanian winter. Other events, offering exclusive access to private properties in the stunning Wynyard and Table Cape areas, include long table feasts, creative workshops and secret whisky tastings. As the volunteer contingent for one Saturday show, we arrived before dark to arrange a few hay bales with blankets for seating and prepared the headsets to hand out to the anticipated crowds. With three shows of ten minutes duration and twenty minutes between shows, there was no time to rest. Fortunately, we were able to enjoy the final session of the evening.

Inner Light is the work of Tasmanian artist, Alex Moss, who encourages discovery and challenges perceptions through projected light, sound design and interactive elements. We took a few photos, though they don’t really convey the true spectacle of the visual revelation on the 25 metre high tower, and of course, the narration is absent. At times, the wall of the lighthouse appeared to crack and fall away, revealing colourful images beneath. (Click on the images to see enlarged version).

possum proofing

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When we decided to plant a micro vineyard two years ago, we didn’t really anticipate the devious, destructive determination of the local possum population. Despite four lines of electric fence, to a height of 1.4 metres, delivering 5,000 volts to any unsuspecting creature coming into contact with it, the pesky possums continued to make ingress. They managed to elude the motion detection cameras we set up, denying us any hope of targeting their entry points. We tried using bird spikes without success and finally conceded the only solution was to create a ‘floppy fence’ around the whole perimeter. I had my reservations about this due to the aesthetics, especially on the garden side but we had no choice. We started on the fence line along the paddock so we could modify our system, depending on the outcome, before getting to the garden line.

We came up with the idea of using the electric fence outriggers we had stashed in the shed to support the wire.

The usual level of swearage ensued as we fought with the wire and wind but the result is actually quite neat.

The second paddock line followed

and we turned our attention to the garden side. We opted for a firmer wire for the sake of neatness but stayed with our method using the outriggers.

I have to admit, it doesn’t look as ugly as I thought it would.

We did the same for the line along the driveway,

joined them at the corner and then finished the gates in the same way.

I am very pleased to report there has been no evidence of possum pandemonium since completion and hopefully, after pruning the vines this winter, we will see substantial growth in spring.