Il Castagno

When looking for a place to stay for the week after the guitar course, I found a 700 year old farmhouse near Cortona. Seeing it on the internet I thought there was no way it could possibly be as good as it appeared. I was right. It was even better!

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The owners live in Colorado and bought the villa to restore in 1999. It was absolutely perfect and, as it was their part time home, it felt very welcoming. The living room,

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main bedroom

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and bathroom

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were upstairs and the natural beauty of the house was complemented by tasteful furnishings.

Some fine meals were created in the ground floor kitchen

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which opened on to the sunny courtyard.

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The original features outside had been retained

and the small front garden was colourful.

We enjoyed relaxing in the shade with a beverage after long days exploring,

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admiring the view

of Cortona, only a 10 minute drive away.

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The shafts of sunlight on this stormy evening lent a spectacular display.

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On other nights, the sinking sun set the sky on fire.

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We knew from the moment we arrived, it was going to be very hard to leave.

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Hadrian’s Wall

Leaving the beauty of Wales behind, we drove through the Lake District, stopping at Windermere to buy supplies.

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The weather was not conducive to sightseeing

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so we were soon on our way to Carlisle for a two night stay at New Pallyards Farm. The next day, we set off to discover Hadrian’s Wall. Built from 122AD, it was the northernmost boundary of the Roman Empire until early in the 5th century. There were many forts along the 80 miles between the Irish Sea and North Sea

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and the lookout at Greenhead rewarded with spectacular views across the countryside.

The section of wall at Walltown Crags was impressive

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as it snaked its way along Whin Sill

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a spectacular rock formation formed millions of years ago.

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The view down to the car park and the landscape beyond was stunning.

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We drove on to Housesteads Fort and climbed the hill

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to the Visitor’s Centre.

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Originally named Vercovicium, meaning ‘the place of the effective fighters’, Housesteads is the most complete Roman fort in Britain.

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The foundations include a hospital, barracks, granaries

and even flushable toilets.

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From the ridge, the most preserved part of the wall disappears into the distance

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and the remains of a gate can be seen.

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The panorama across Northumberland National Park was magnificent

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and the locals seemed very contented.

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We continued our drive to Newcastle,

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eager for a drop of the namesake brown ale. We were so disappointed to learn they don’t serve Newcastle Brown Ale on tap in Newcastle! We chose another brew and enjoyed a delicious lunch overlooking Tynemouth Bay

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and the majestic 13th century Castle & Priory.

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Unfortunately, the ruins were closed to visitors for the season so we returned to our cottage in Carlisle for another cosy night.

wilderness & wine

The second day of our transcontinental journey on the Indian Pacific was spent relaxing, reading and watching the scenery pass by.

There were sporadic signs of human habitation in the otherwise desolate landscape.

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The terrain changed the further we travelled through South Australia

and just north of Peterborough, the fertile green fields of farmland contrasted with the barren outback.

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Passengers can commence their journey in Adelaide, where the train stops for supplies and welcomes a new crew. This allows a few hours to enjoy an off train excursion to the National Wine Centre. Built in the year 2000 in the shape of an oak barrel, it has won many architectural awards.

We were taken on a Wine Discovery Journey, beginning with the open cellar.

With the capacity to store up to 38,000 bottles, it is one of the largest in the Southern Hemisphere.

The ‘Wined Bar’ would be a lovely place to linger, with 120 different wines to sample in one tasting room.

We were introduced to the technology, varieties and styles of wine

as well as this 150 year old Shiraz vine, painstakingly extracted from St. Hallett’s vineyard in Tanunda.

We made our way back to the dining room, passing some interesting art pieces,

to indulge in canapés and a delicious dinner – with wine, of course. A rainy night greeted us as we left the wine centre

and boarded a coach to return to the station.

I think a good night’s sleep was had by all.

Chianti

After saying our goodbyes, we left Benabbio for a day of leisurely driving to our next destination near Cortona. By lunch time we were surrounded by the stunning scenery of the Chianti Valley and were lured by the trusty knife & fork symbol at Castello di Gabbiano.

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Unfortunately, they didn’t serve lunch but we stayed a while to admire the magnificent 12th century castle, now a very inviting B&B.

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The castle has an interesting history

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and is home to one of the oldest and best known wineries in the Chianti Classico region. The views over acres of vines, olives and woods were breathtaking.

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We continued to Greve in Chianti where we finally had some lunch. The drive slowed down as we ogled the scenery through the heart of old Tuscany.

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There seemed no end to the green rolling hills dotted with peaceful stone villas.

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We eventually left Chianti behind and found Camucia and our accommodation, relatively easily thanks to the detailed directions from the owner. After locating the caretaker, Isolina, ‘up the road and round the corner’, we poured a vino and settled in.

Conwy

One of the most memorable B&Bs on our travels in Britain was Whinward House in Conwy, on the north coast of Wales. The 1890s Coaching Inn had been renovated beautifully and hosts, Chris & Janis made us very welcome. After a good night sleep

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and a hearty home cooked breakfast,

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we strolled along the river walk

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to the walled market town of Conwy.

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The smallest house in Great Britain, 3.05m x 1.8m, was occupied from the 16th century to 1900. The last tenant was a 6’3” fisherman and he was eventually forced to move out when the council declared the house unfit for human habitation.

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The living area on the ground floor had room for coal and an open fire

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while the cosy bedroom was upstairs.

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We explored Aberconwy House, a 14th century merchant’s house and the oldest recorded dwelling in Wales.

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No visit to Conwy would be complete without experiencing the castle.

The castle and town walls were built between 1283 and 1289.

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Glimpses of the River Conwy could be seen through the windows

and the interior of the castle has been remarkably preserved.

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Someone had a very comfortable home.

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The perspective of the castle changed as we climbed higher

and the views of the river and countryside were beautiful.

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The suspension bridge was completed in 1826 to replace the ferry across the River Conwy and is now only open to pedestrians.

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We bade farewell to Conwy Castle

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and returned along the river walk. The tide had risen, the name of this boat seemed very appropriate.

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We wandered to the marina

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and enjoyed a wonderful meal at The Mulberry

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before another comfortable night at Whinward House.