Cape Naturaliste

We continued our traversal of Geographe Bay to our destination, Cape Naturaliste lighthouse.

1.lighthouse

The tower was constructed in 1903 from local limestone and was activated the following year.

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Unfortunately, we weren’t able to tour the lighthouse which is now fully automated, being the last lighthouse in Western Australia to lose its keeper in 1996.

4.lighthouse

At the northernmost point in the Margaret River Region, positioned on a 100m high bluff, the views were spectacular.

5.stormclouds

Stormclouds were gathering out to sea.

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It is little wonder the French navigator, Nicolas Baudin, named Geographe Bay after his flagship and the cape after his second ship, Naturaliste.

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The traditional owners of the land, the Wardandi, call it Kwirreejeenungup:

8.sign

“the place with the beautiful view”.

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Ossaia

After a lazy afternoon at Il Castagno, we decided to dine in the nearby town of Ossaia. Rather than driving, we walked the easy 2km on a perfect spring evening.

1.road to Ossaia

The countryside was peaceful, scattered with gorgeous rustic farmhouses.

2.chapel3.farmhouse4.farmhouse5.farmhouse

Ossaia literally means boneyard. There are apparently thousands of Roman soldiers who were defeated by Hannibal in 217BC at the Battle of Trasimeno, buried under the town.

The small community was enchanting, with some beautiful homes.

8.town9.town

I’m not sure about this driveway, though.

10.town

La Tufa had been recommended to us and we found it easily.

11.La Tufa

We wandered through

to the inviting restaurant

14.La Tufa

but on this warm night we opted for a table outside.

15.La Tufa

The pizzas were delicious

and we had just enough room for nonna tart and flaming crème brulee.

19.flaming creme brulee

The walk home was a little slower.

Isle of Skye

We hadn’t planned ahead for our trip through Scotland, preferring to see where each day ended. Late October is not the height of the tourist season, however, arriving on the Isle of Skye we found accommodation scarce. We were very fortunate to find a room at Uig Hotel, a beautiful old coaching inn dating back to 1831.

1.Uig Hotel

We settled in at the bar to enjoy some local beverages. A Red Cuillin ale for Michael, brewed locally since 1995 and a Talisker single malt for me from the only distillery on the Isle of Skye. We absorbed the stunning view of Uig Bay and Loch Snizort.

2.Uig Bay3.Loch Snizort

The tower in our sights was a 19th century folly, known as Fraser’s Folly. The tenants of Kilmuir Estate, owned by Major William Fraser in 1855, would go to the folly to pay their rents. The tower was later turned into a family home and eventually abandoned in the 1950s.

4.Fraser's Folly

We enjoyed a superb meal in The Folly restaurant at the hotel, Michael honouring his Scottish roots with a main course of venison haggis. The next morning, we awoke to severe stormy weather. We had decided to explore the island in an anticlockwise direction and see where the road led, we weren’t going to let the elements stop us. The camera stayed safely tucked away until we came across Sligachan Bridge.

5.Sligachan Bridge

Built in the 1820s, it was taking quite a beating from the waters whipped up by the gale force winds.

6.upstream

Apparently, the views of the Black Cuillin mountains are spectacular on a clear day. Legend has it that if you dip your face in the river water by the bridge for seven seconds, you will stay young and beautiful forever. I certainly wasn’t going to try on this day.

7.downstream

Eagle Bay

Our journey from Meelup to Cape Naturaliste involved a detour to Eagle Bay Brewing Co. Situated in the northwestern corner of the Margaret River region, this microbrewery has been a family affair since 2010. The sweeping views over verdant farmland made for a glorious backdrop to enjoy a leisurely beverage.

1.view

The handcrafted beers are brewed in small batches, the magic is created with only four ingredients; malted barley, yeast, hops and rainwater fresh from the heavens. Whichever way you look at it, the tasting paddle was the obvious choice.

The mist gathering on the horizon wasn’t only induced by the beer,

I can’t say the same for the smile on Michael’s face as we departed.

5.Eagle Bay Brewing Co

Next time, lunch is definitely on the menu.

https://eaglebaybrewing.com.au

Camucia

Camucia was the nearest town to our rented villa, Il Castagno, and the ideal place to stock up on groceries and, of course, vino. Nestled at the foot of the hill on which Cortona sits, the town is small with beautiful streetscapes.

1.Camucia2.Camucia

Thursday is market day in Camucia and we spent a gorgeous, sunny morning meandering amid the stalls.

3.market

There was everything imaginable for sale from clothes, shoes, toys and linens

4.market

to flowers and fresh fruit and vegetables.

5.market

I was too busy salivating at the array of fresh produce to take photos of it. Roasted pork was very popular, served from vans on Tuscan bread with the most exquisite crackling.

6.crispy pork by Piero

We returned to the villa for a lazy afternoon, I even had my first siesta.