Firenze

While staying at Benabbio, our wonderful friend, Debra, offered to escort we ladies on a day trip to Florence. On an overcast, drizzly morning, we drove to Lucca station and braved an hour long white-knuckle bus ride along the autostrada to Firenze (a much nicer name than Florence). We alighted the bus at the Piazza di Santa Maria Novella.

1.Piazza di Santa Maria Novella

The Basilica di Santa Maria Novella was stunning,

2.Basilica di Santa Maria Novella

a sample of thing to come.

3.Basilica di Santa Maria Novella

Our first stop was Caffe Giacosa for coffee and calories

followed by an amble along the main shopping street, window shopping along the way because we couldn’t afford to stop and buy.

Debra pointed out this interesting chap watching from the street corner.

17.sculpture

We made our way to the Duomo di Firenze and with the sun shining it was absolutely breathtaking.

18.Duomo

Nearby, the Baptistry, one of the oldest buildings in the city, constructed between 1059 and 1128, displayed its spectacular Eastern Doors. Described by Michelangelo as the Gates of Paradise, the panels took 27 years to complete.

There was a very long queue to see inside the Duomo so we opted to climb the 414 very narrow stone steps to the top of Giotto’s Campanile.

The view, as we climbed, was stunning

31.view32.Palazzo Vecchio Clocktower

and looking down on the Duomo highlighted the intricacies of the façade.

33.Duomo

There are seven bells in the tower and as we were standing at the top taking in the panorama of Firenze,

39.Basilica di Santa Croce40.view

all seven rang in the hour of mezzogiorno, a truly memorable moment.

41.Piazza della Republica42.view

A quick look at where we had been

43.Giotto's Campanile

and our excursion continued to the Piazza della Signoria and the statue of David

44.David

in the shadow of the Palazzo Vecchio, the town hall of Firenze.

45.Palazzo Vecchio

He is in good company with Neptune, Hercules and Perseus

and a bit further on, more friends at the Galleria degli Uffizi.

On the wall of the Palazzo Vecchio is a Michelangelo graffiti, a profile etched in one of the stone blocks.

54.Michelangelo graffiti

The Ponte Vecchio was our next destination,

55.Ponte Vecchio

a medieval stone bridge spanning the Arno River

and occupied by an array of beautiful shops.

It was first built in 996AD and after being swept away twice, was rebuilt in 1345. Downstream….

63.downstream

is the Ponte Santa Trinita, destroyed in 1944 by the retreating German troops. The original stones were retrieved from the river or taken from the same quarry to reconstruct it in 1958.

64. Ponte Santa Trinita

Debra finally let us have a break and we lunched at Trattoria Bordino, a small ristorante in a very quiet lane.

65.Trattoria Bordino

After a wonderful meal and a little vino,

66.Trattoria Bordino

we were fortified for the afternoon. We visited the Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, the longest continually operating pharmacy in the world. The sculptures and frescoes were magnificent as we wandered through the many rooms.

Founded in 1221 by the Dominican Friars, all products are still handmade in Firenze.

80.Farmaceutica

Our day was coming to a close and after a quick look around the leather market, we boarded the bus for Lucca and another animated drive home. Thank you, Debra, for those very special memories of Firenze.

81.Firenze

Benabbio skies

Our days at Villa San Rocco culminated with bevvies on the balcony in the late afternoon. Not only was it an exceptional way to end the day, it presented the opportunity to witness nature at her artistic best, presenting a different image each day. The suns rays illuminated the mountains through an overcast sky.

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The fiery orange glow promised a perfect spring day to come.

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Sure enough, the following day was glorious.

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Clouds mingled with mountains creating a new horizon.

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The colours explode in fabulous firecracker fashion.

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Heavy cloud concealed the setting sun

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but later, after dinner in the village, a rose glow revealed itself.

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There was an eerie intensity this day, almost as though spells were being cast over the mountains.

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Our last sunset was truly spectacular, the changes subtle as we sipped and reminisced the past two weeks

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and contemplated the adventures that lay ahead.

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Vico Pancellorum

Sunday was a day of rest for the hardworking luthiers so, having been recommended a certain restaurant, we drove to the village of Vico Pancellorum to sample for ourselves. The village is the last in Bagni di Lucca heading up the Lima River. We spent some time before lunch exploring the village

1.walk2.walk

and admiring the majesty of the countryside.

3.view

The houses cling to the steep hillside leading to one of the tallest mountains in Tuscany,

4.village

each had its own character.

This monument appears to be a memorial to those who fought in the Apennines.

8.monument

We paused to look back at the village

9.village

and the neighbours across the valley

10.village

before continuing up the hill.

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Once again, I was intrigued by the old doorways

and gates.

We ambled on,

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bursts of colour revealed themselves

and it was time to take in the gorgeous view over the village

29.village

before returning for lunch. There were some lovely surprises as we strolled back.

We had worked up an appetite and Buca di Baldabò didn’t disappoint.

39.Buca di Baldabò

With no written menu, we were happy to be guided by our hosts. Unfortunately, I didn’t take food photos but the four of us shared a selection of traditional Tuscan dishes including Gnocchi with Gypsy Sauce, Tagliatelli with Wild Game Sauce, Spinach & Ricotta Ravioli with Basil, Slow Cooked Lamb and Rabbit with Olives. I came up for air long enough to snap the wonderful finale of Biscotti con Vin Santo.

40.Biscotti con Vin Santo

Before leaving the village, we had a closer look at Pieve di San Paolo.

41.Pieve di San Paolo

Dating back to 873AD, it is the oldest church of the Val di Lima.

One last look at the gorgeous mountains and we were braced for the drive home.

44.view from Pieve di San Paolo

A perfect way to spend a Sunday.

Benabbio Castle

In the hills behind the village of Benabbio lie the ruins of Castle Benabbio. One afternoon, we took a walk to the top of the village and found the path that would take us there.

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There were intriguing reminders of the past as we made our way further up the hill.

We left the village behind

9.walk

and the views across the valley and village were breathtaking.

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Within the castle walls is the ancient church of San Michele, founded in 1218.

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It is thought to be the first parish church of Benabbio but ceased religious activities after the dismantling of the defenses of the castle in 1334.

In 1855, the old medieval cemetery was used to bury the 44 victims of a cholera epidemic. There is a plaque, in their memory, on the outside wall of the church.

18.church

The castle has been the site of archeological excavations for years, with many important finds. Some parts of the walls remain intact.

19.castle

The castle was owned by the Lupari family who swore to the City of Lucca to guard the Apennines against enemy invasion.

When war broke out between the Florentines and Lucchesi in 1334, Lupo Lupari deceived the Lucchese who, in turn, travelled to Benabbio to punish Lupo. They claimed the castle and the Lupari family fled to Bologna. However, legend has it that Lupo is buried in a tunnel accessible from the existing well.

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Villa Grabau

Lucca is surrounded by magnificent historical residences of the 16th century. On a perfect spring day, three of us ventured out to discover a couple of them. Villa Grabau was first built in Renaissance style in the late 16th century,

1.villa2.villa

then renovated in the 19th century in a neo-classical style.

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Following a tour of the villa, owned by the Grabau family since 1868, we explored the 9 hectares of beautiful gardens. Starting with the formal Italian garden behind the villa,

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the pond lilies enjoying the sunshine.

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We meandered along mysterious paths

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never knowing quite what we would find.

The 17th century limonaia was fascinating.

12.limonaia

Over 100 lemon trees are moved inside, in their terracotta pots, to shelter in winter.

13.limonaia

There are many rare species in the park,

we didn’t expect to find giant bamboo in an Italian garden.

The ‘Box Hedge Theatre’ was enchanting.

27.box hedge theatre

A stage defined by box tree hedges set in a secluded position,

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the theatre garden contains two marble lions and a bubbling fountain.

30.box hedge theatre

Having worked up an appetite, we had a delicious al fresco lunch at a small roadside Osteria, Bottega sulla Fraga.

32.osteria

The English translation of the menu was dubious

but the meals were superb.

After lunch, we made our way to Villa Reale but that will be another post.