The time had come to leave Benabbio. There were many things I would miss, the tranquility and beauty not least. I never tired of the mountains that surrounded us
and the mesmerising mist that awaited when I opened the bedroom shutters in the morning.
No matter where we wandered in the village, the mountains followed us.
We were sad to say goodbye to beautiful Benabbio and our new found friends
but there were more adventures awaiting us.
One of the things I found fascinating in the Tuscan villages was the seemingly infinite array of doors. Wandering around Benabbio, I was intrigued by the lives unfolding behind these portals and what may have been in the past few hundred years. There were many green doors and I wondered at the significance.
I found some interesting insights, from suggestions of traditional values, caring about home & community,
to being ambitious and good with finances.
Green insinuates health, safety, tranquility and harmony.
In ancient times, green was worn to appeal to nature spirits for protection.
Whatever the reason, I think green is a fabulous colour for a front door.
Some doors were quite opulent
or at least, displayed a certain style.
Others exhibited their many years of service.
Then there were those that haven’t been opened in recent times.
I wonder what this mysterious little hatch was used for?
After a morning strolling around the grounds of Villa Grabeau, followed by another delicious Tuscan lunch, we found our way to Villa Reale.
In 1806, the sister of Napoleon, Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi, purchased the 16th century villa for her country residence.
She also acquired other neighbouring properties, including Villa del Vescovo.
The sweeping lawns and lake were breathtaking.
As we walked around the villa
we discovered the Italian Renaissance garden
and the abandoned inner courtyard.
There were some surprising smaller buildings like the summer house
and chapel.
The nymphaeum (sacred place of the nymphs), is dedicated to the god Pan.
Built around 1580, the circular grotto has a domed roof with a single opening at the top.
Nestling within niches in the interior limestone wall are the statue of Pan
along with disturbing sea figures and gargoyles.
The art deco influenced Spanish Garden was created in 1924 when the park underwent restoration.
The Palazzina dell’Orologio waited majestically at the end of the avenue
as we made our way to the 17th century Lemon Garden where more than two hundred citrus trees surround four magnificent magnolias
At one end, the fountain of the Three Graces is set in a semicircle of rustic mosaics.
At the opposite end is a large fishpond bordered by a marble balustrade.
Two statues of giants, representing the Arno and Serchio rivers, spill urns into the pond
while Leda and the Swan keep watch from their niche.
We continued on to the atrium of the Green Theatre with it’s beautiful fountain
and statues.
A natural theatre formed by yew hedges, the Teatro di Verzura was created in 1652. The semi-circular stage has a series of wings 5.5m high and the spherical bushes at the front imitate footlights.
Surrounding the grass stage are terracotta statues of Columbine, Pantaloon and Punchinello.
After a closer look at the 17th century Clock Palace,
we descended the steps
to the spectacular Teatro d’Acqua. Water pours from the mouths of five masks around the semi-circular pool,
the Grotto fountain is a marvellous centrepiece.
Statues of Jupiter, Saturn, Adonis and Pomona
overlook the pool and immaculate gardens beyond.
In 2015 the Villa Reale Di Marlia was sold to a couple from Switzerland. The 18,000sq m building on 19ha of land is going to be turned in a luxury hotel.
The Benabbio church, Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta, was first opened in the year 1336.
The beautiful stone buildings grace the piazza of the same name.
There is a monument commemorating a thousand years from 983 to 1983.
Behind the church is a former chapel which has been converted to a museum
housing religious objects hundreds of years old. One evening before dinner, we were privileged to have a guided tour of the museum, not normally open to the public.
This statue was carved out of a hollow tree trunk in the 13th century
and the back of this one is an old wooden door.
These two wooden statues, representing the annunciation, were carved in 1394 and are in surprisingly good condition.
Some of the expressions on the faces within this altar were quite disturbing.
I like the floor tiles with reference to brothers and sisters.
The church was beautiful with the late afternoon sun creating a peaceful ambience.
The carved and painted triptych hanging over the altar was made in 1469.
The church is floodlit at night, a tradition in Italy even out in the countryside and mountains.
Sunday was a day of rest for the hardworking luthiers so, having been recommended a certain restaurant, we drove to the village of Vico Pancellorum to sample for ourselves. The village is the last in Bagni di Lucca heading up the Lima River. We spent some time before lunch exploring the village
and admiring the majesty of the countryside.
The houses cling to the steep hillside leading to one of the tallest mountains in Tuscany,
each had its own character.
This monument appears to be a memorial to those who fought in the Apennines.
We paused to look back at the village
and the neighbours across the valley
before continuing up the hill.
Once again, I was intrigued by the old doorways
and gates.
We ambled on,
bursts of colour revealed themselves
and it was time to take in the gorgeous view over the village
before returning for lunch. There were some lovely surprises as we strolled back.
We had worked up an appetite and Buca di Baldabò didn’t disappoint.
With no written menu, we were happy to be guided by our hosts. Unfortunately, I didn’t take food photos but the four of us shared a selection of traditional Tuscan dishes including Gnocchi with Gypsy Sauce, Tagliatelli with Wild Game Sauce, Spinach & Ricotta Ravioli with Basil, Slow Cooked Lamb and Rabbit with Olives. I came up for air long enough to snap the wonderful finale of Biscotti con Vin Santo.
Before leaving the village, we had a closer look at Pieve di San Paolo.
Dating back to 873AD, it is the oldest church of the Val di Lima.
One last look at the gorgeous mountains and we were braced for the drive home.
A perfect way to spend a Sunday.
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