down the track

We left Katherine early with a long day’s drive ahead of us. Our first break was Mataranka Homestead. Built in 1916 to serve the original sheep station, the homestead borders Elsey National Park and is situated between two rivers, the Waterhouse river and the Little Roper river.

1.Mataranka Homestead circa 19162.peacock

The early morning sun bathed us as we walked to the thermal pool.

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The thermal pool is spring fed, bubbling at a constant 34ºC. The dappled light on the surface of the water adds to the relaxing atmosphere.

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The river was so peaceful and still

9.river

and the return walk was hugged by majestic palm trees.

11.return walk

In the early 1980s, a movie based on Jeannie Gunn’s “We of the Never Never” was shot around Mataranka. A replica of the old Elsey Homestead was erected for the film and still stands at Mataranka Homestead.

12.We of the Never Never

200km along the track we stopped at Daly Waters. The name was given to a series of natural springs by John McDouall Stuart, after the new Governor of South Australia, Sir Dominick Daly.

There was some interesting signage in the town.

The famous pub is decorated with memorabilia left by visitors from all over the globe. Rumour has it that it started in the 1980s with a drinking bet between a coach driver and his female passengers.

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The beer garden was delightfully rustic

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and the signage theme continued.

We lunched a bit further on at the roadhouse at Dunmarra, a small settlement on the historic Overland Telegraph Line. We were joined by a group of apostlebirds, named after the apostles because they travel in groups of 12.

I like to know how places get their names and this one is quite convoluted. Dan O’Mara, an Overland Telegraph linesman, disappeared in the region in the early 1900s. Drover Noel Healy established a cattle station in the 1930s and discovered O’Mara’s skeleton in the bush. The local Aboriginal people couldn’t pronounce O’Mara and their attempts sounded more like Dunmarra and so, the station was named.

the wild west

The small settlement of Arthur River on Tasmania’s west coast is home to less than 50 permanent residents.

1.looking back

Named after the only Tasmanian river that is completely wild – never logged, never dammed – the mouth of which empties into the mighty Southern Ocean.

2.river meets ocean

The winds of the Roaring Forties combine with fierce ocean currents and travel from  Argentina, 15,000km away, across the longest uninterrupted expanse of ocean in the world. I tried to capture the power of the waves breaking over this solitary rock. I didn’t succeed.

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The washing machine effect of the waves, combined with the river flow, carry five hundred year old forest giants of Tasmanian Oak, Blackwood, Myrtle and Sassafras and heave them ashore as if they were twigs.

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Just south of Arthur River is Gardiner Point…..The Edge of the World….

8.the edge

Written by Brian Inder, a Tasmanian tourism pioneer, he describes exactly how it feels to stand on the rugged coastline with nothing but ocean beyond.

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bedazzling bridge

Crossing the Serchio River near the town of Borgo a Mozzano is the stunning Ponte del Diavolo, Bridge of the Devil.

1.bridge

Commissioned by Countess Matilda of Tuscany and completed around 1100, it became an important medieval pilgrimage route to Rome from France.

2.bridge

Legend has it that the stone mason was struggling to complete the bridge on time and so, asked the Devil for help. The Devil accepted, with the payment being the soul of the first to cross the bridge. Long story short, a pig was sent across first. The Devil was so angry, he threw himself into the river and disappeared.

3.from other side

On a gloomy day it’s easy to imagine the Devil lurking in the murky depths.

4.downstream

In 1500, the bridge became known as Ponte della Maddalena, from an oratory dedicated to Mary Magdalene, whose statue stood at the foot of the bridge on the eastern bank.

6.bridge

On a perfect spring day, the Devil is nowhere to be seen.

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Bath & Bulford

While staying in Wiltshire, we crossed the border into Somerset for a day trip to Bath.

1.Bath

Known for it magnificent 18th century Georgian architecture

2.Bath

5.Bath

and natural hot springs, we headed for a tour of the original Roman Baths. Our attention was diverted to a gathering crowd and we joined them to find two g-string clad gents who proceeded to entertain with an array of cunning stunts for the next half hour.

Some of the ladies enjoying a cuppa in the adjacent tea rooms had a bird’s eye view.

The grand finale of synchronised hand stands with sparklers in their bottoms was spectacular.

It was well worth the £5 we donated at the end. We never did see the Roman Baths! We strolled along the river

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and made our way to Royal Crescent. The row of 30 terraced houses was built between 1767 & 1774 and is one of Bath’s most iconic landmarks.

27.Royal Cresc Bath

In need of a well earned lunch and a pint, we found The Curfew, a traditional British pub built in the 1820s.

We returned to our fabulous B&B in Bulford, The Dovecot.

30.Dovecot Bulford

The core of the house is the old 18th century dovecot for Bulford Manor.

Set on 6 very peaceful acres on the banks of the River Avon

38.Dovecot Bulford37.Dovecot Bulford

even the outbuildings had charm.

We found a pub in a nearby village, Upper Woodford, for dinner.

41.The Bridge Upp Woodford

This is not quite what we expected when ordering fish cakes in a pub.

42.The Bridge Upp Woodford

The bottle of South Australian white completed the day perfectly.

Katherine Gorge

The Katherine River has carved a deep gorge through ancient sandstone, beginning at Kakadu. The thirteen gorges and surrounding landscape have great ceremonial significance to the local Jawoyn people. Nitmiluk means “place of the cicada dreaming” in Jawoyn language.

1.Nitmiluk Gorge

These amazing creatures were hanging around

2.bats

the walkway leading to the boat.

3.boat

We spent a glorious morning cruising along the river surrounded by awe inspiring scenery.

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During the dry season, the gorges become separated.

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We enjoyed the walk between them

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and a closer look at the rock formations and aboriginal rock art.

The spectacle continued through the second and third gorges.

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This rock looks like a dog sniffing the fresh air.

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We pulled into the bank and walked to a stunning waterhole.

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Some took the opportunity to cool down, we sat in the shade and admired the majestic waterfall.

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Back on board, we continued homeward in time for lunch.

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This magnificent blue-winged kookaburra was quite comfortable with the attention she was receiving,

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perhaps waiting for some lunch herself?