West Wales

Following our exploration of Cilgerran castle, we found a lovely place for lunch in nearby Cardigan.

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I thought it would be nice to buy a cardigan in Cardigan, but I didn’t. Instead, we strolled along the River Teifi

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before continuing our drive north. Not far from Aberystwyth was our inviting B&B, Awel-Deg, at Capel Bangor.

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The views were stunning across the gorgeous Rheidol Valley.

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We walked to the Tynllidiart Arms for dinner

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and sampled ales brewed at the smallest commercial brewery in the world. Bragdy Gwynant is a five foot square former men’s toilet where, since 2004, beers have been brewed for the Tynllidiart Arms.

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The next morning, we detoured to Devil’s Bridge. There are actually three bridges built on top of each other, the oldest dating back to the 11th century. The stone bridge was then built in 1753 when the original became unstable and the most recent iron bridge was constructed in 1901.

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The bridge is at a point where, before reaching the River Rheidol, the River Mynach drops 90 metres down a steep and narrow ravine.

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As we descended the steps

the bridge rose above us.

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At the bottom, the water created wonderful waterfalls as it cascaded through the confines of the gorge.

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According to legend, the original bridge was built by the Devil. He was visiting Wales and came across a lady whose cow had wandered across the river and she couldn’t get her back. He offered to build a bridge in return for the soul of the first living thing to cross the bridge. The next morning, the lady returned but she tricked the Devil by throwing bread so her dog went across first. The Devil wasn’t happy and was never seen in Wales again.

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We continued our drive north through Snowdonia National Park, 823 square miles of stunning landscapes,

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as we headed for the coast.

Villa Reale di Marlia

After a morning strolling around the grounds of Villa Grabeau, followed by another delicious Tuscan lunch, we found our way to Villa Reale.

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In 1806, the sister of Napoleon, Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi, purchased the 16th century villa for her country residence.

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She also acquired other neighbouring properties, including Villa del Vescovo.

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The sweeping lawns and lake were breathtaking.

As we walked around the villa

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we discovered the Italian Renaissance garden

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and the abandoned inner courtyard.

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There were some surprising smaller buildings like the summer house

and chapel.

The nymphaeum (sacred place of the nymphs), is dedicated to the god Pan.

Built around 1580, the circular grotto has a domed roof with a single opening at the top.

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Nestling within niches in the interior limestone wall are the statue of Pan

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along with disturbing sea figures and gargoyles.

The art deco influenced Spanish Garden was created in 1924 when the park underwent restoration.

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The Palazzina dell’Orologio waited majestically at the end of the avenue

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as we made our way to the 17th century Lemon Garden where more than two hundred citrus trees surround four magnificent magnolias

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At one end, the fountain of the Three Graces is set in a semicircle of rustic mosaics.

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At the opposite end is a large fishpond bordered by a marble balustrade.

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Two statues of giants, representing the Arno and Serchio rivers, spill urns into the pond

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while Leda and the Swan keep watch from their niche.

We continued on to the atrium of the Green Theatre with it’s beautiful fountain

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and statues.

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A natural theatre formed by yew hedges, the Teatro di Verzura was created in 1652. The semi-circular stage has a series of wings 5.5m high and the spherical bushes at the front imitate footlights.

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Surrounding the grass stage are terracotta statues of Columbine, Pantaloon and Punchinello.

After a closer look at the 17th century Clock Palace,

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we descended the steps

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to the spectacular Teatro d’Acqua. Water pours from the mouths of five masks around the semi-circular pool,

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the Grotto fountain is a marvellous centrepiece.

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Statues of Jupiter, Saturn, Adonis and Pomona

overlook the pool and immaculate gardens beyond.

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In 2015 the Villa Reale Di Marlia was sold to a couple from Switzerland. The 18,000sq m building on 19ha of land is going to be turned in a luxury hotel.

Cilgerran Castle

There are many medieval castles throughout Britain but Cilgerran Castle is unusual in that it was built with one side directly onto a cliff face.

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The existing ruin dates back to the 13th century, although there was first mention of a structure on this site as early as 1165.

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Having withstood many battles and changes of ownership, the castle was left to ruin in 1400.

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The castle is in a stunning position high above the Teifi Gorge.

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We spent some time wandering around, admiring the workmanship of a past age.

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We could almost hear the clamour of chain mail echoing from the stairwell.

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The views over the Pembrokeshire countryside were spectacular.

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Across the gorge, Coedmore Mansion rested peacefully within the woodland.

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The gorgeous early 19th century country house was, sadly, divided into flats in 1990.

Benabbio church

The Benabbio church, Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta, was first opened in the year 1336.

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The beautiful stone buildings grace the piazza of the same name.

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There is a monument commemorating a thousand years from 983 to 1983.

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Behind the church is a former chapel which has been converted to a museum

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housing religious objects hundreds of years old. One evening before dinner, we were privileged to have a guided tour of the museum, not normally open to the public.

This statue was carved out of a hollow tree trunk in the 13th century

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and the back of this one is an old wooden door.

These two wooden statues, representing the annunciation, were carved in 1394 and are in surprisingly good condition.

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Some of the expressions on the faces within this altar were quite disturbing.

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I like the floor tiles with reference to brothers and sisters.

The church was beautiful with the late afternoon sun creating a peaceful ambience.

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The carved and painted triptych hanging over the altar was made in 1469.

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The church is floodlit at night, a tradition in Italy even out in the countryside and mountains.

Talley Abbey

As we continued our exploration of Wales, we travelled through the stunning countryside

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of the Brecon Beacons.

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The view from this bridge in the morning light was gorgeous.

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We even found our dream renovation project.

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Llwyn-On reservoir is the largest of the three reservoirs in the Taf Farw Valley. Completed in 1926, the 150 acre reservoir is a popular fishing spot.

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Our route took us past Talley Abbey, a ruined former monastery in the village of Talley.

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Founded in 1184 by Lord Rhys for the monks of the Premonstratensian order (White Canons), the abbey was dissolved by Henry VIII.

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The villagers used the stone to build the present village and the Parish church of St. Michael, next door to the ruins.

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The surrounding countryside was beautiful.

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The nearby lakes were used for fish farming to support the monks.

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There was such an air of tranquility, I wouldn’t mind living in Talley.