Tag Archives: photography

Pieman River

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A leisurely way to experience the Tarkine Wilderness is to spend a few hours on the Pieman River aboard the heritage vessel, MV Arcadia II.

The 17 metre boat was built of Huon Pine in 1939 as a luxury pleasure craft based in Hobart. She was requisitioned to serve as a supply ship in New Guinea during the Second World War. Life became more peaceful as a scallop fishing boat on the east coast of Tasmania and then as a cruise boat on Macquarie Harbour and the Gordon River in 1961.

The Arcadia II has been cruising the Pieman River since 1970 and is the only Huon Pine river cruiser still operating anywhere in the world. A refurbishment in 2006 returned her to original pristine condition. I was hoping we had no need for the lifeboat.

We departed from Corinna at 10am on a moody, overcast morning.

Huon Pines dipped their pendulous foliage in the tannin hued water

as we rounded a bend, leaving Corinna behind .

The 434 metre peak of Mount Donaldson, part of the Norfolk Range, loomed in the distance

as we passed the confluence of the Savage River, ending its 71.7km journey.

A little further downstream, the Donaldson River also flows into the Pieman after a 54km course from its source.

We were hopeful for a sighting of the ever elusive platypus and, keeping our eyes peeled, we weren’t disappointed.

We would have missed the sea eagles nest if it hadn’t been pointed out by the skipper.

Enjoying the tranquility, we were served hot chocolate, cake and biscuits – what could be better?

As the skies cleared and the forest vegetation changed, we soon arrived at our destination.

Pieman Heads, where the Pieman River meets the Indian Ocean, marks the southern extremity of the Arthur-Pieman Conservation Area.

Breathing in the freshest air on Earth, we walked a few hundred metres from the boat and perched amongst the driftwood to savour our tasty packed lunch.

Strolling back an hour or so later, we came across an interesting structure. The Huon Pine timbers were recovered from the river in 2005 after spending forty years buried in silt and sand at the heads. They were part of the original Corinna barge, built in 1878, that transported prospectors, surveyors, livestock and general goods across the river using a cable and hand winch. From 1945, the barge plied up and down the river assisted by a power boat tied alongside. It’s life came to an end when, in 1964, it was washed away from its moorings in a flood and lost.

We returned to our more reliable form of transport

with nothing to do but relax and enjoy the ride.

The mysterious stairway along the river, not far downstream from Corinna, leads to Lovers Falls.

There is a shorter cruise on a smaller craft, (Sweetwater Cruise) that ties up at the stairs to enable a walk to the waterfall. The only other way to reach them is by kayak.

Arriving back at Corinna at 2.30pm, we had time for a short walk before bevvies and a delicious dinner at the hotel.

Philosopher Falls Walk

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Having read some horror reviews of the condition of the road from Waratah to Corinna, we had no idea how long the drive would take, especially as some roads were still closed following heavy spring rains. We deliberated a diversion to explore Philosopher Falls, named after explorer James ‘Philosopher’ Smith who discovered the waterfall in 1871. Setting ourselves a time limit, we ventured along the trail

and were soon embraced by towering myrtles and sassafras trees.

Verdant ferns and mosses carpeted the ground beneath the canopy.

Suddenly, the thick forest transformed and an area of tall, spindly trees flanked the path.

As the canopy closed in again,

we were entranced by vibrant fungi, coloured courtesy of nature’s palette.

We came to a footbridge spanning a flowing creek, a tributary to the Arthur River, and made the decision to turn back.

Had we continued, we would have walked the track that follows an old water race built to supply Magnet Mine in the early 1900s. Eventually, a 210-step staircase leads to a view from the bottom of the multi-tiered waterfall. We will have to return one day when we have no time constraints.

Moonlight Stories

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Atop Table Cape, an extinct volcano rising 180 metres above the ocean in northwest Tasmania, is a heritage listed lighthouse. Each weekend evening throughout the month of July, the structure becomes the centrepiece for a stunning visual and auditory light experience.

Moonlight Stories is one of a series of events, collectively known as Permission to Trespass, presented during our Tasmanian winter. Other events, offering exclusive access to private properties in the stunning Wynyard and Table Cape areas, include long table feasts, creative workshops and secret whisky tastings. As the volunteer contingent for one Saturday show, we arrived before dark to arrange a few hay bales with blankets for seating and prepared the headsets to hand out to the anticipated crowds. With three shows of ten minutes duration and twenty minutes between shows, there was no time to rest. Fortunately, we were able to enjoy the final session of the evening.

Inner Light is the work of Tasmanian artist, Alex Moss, who encourages discovery and challenges perceptions through projected light, sound design and interactive elements. We took a few photos, though they don’t really convey the true spectacle of the visual revelation on the 25 metre high tower, and of course, the narration is absent. At times, the wall of the lighthouse appeared to crack and fall away, revealing colourful images beneath. (Click on the images to see enlarged version).

Waratah museum

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Driving through Waratah on our way to Corinna, we spied an interesting rustic cabin. We stopped to investigate and found Philosopher Smith’s hut, a replica of a typical miner’s hut from the late 1800s.

James ‘Philosopher’ Smith is credited with the discovery of tin at Mount Bischoff and the founding of Waratah in 1871.

The interior was less than comfortable and displayed the equipment a prospector would have used when searching for minerals in the 1870s.

With time to spare before lunch, we moved on to explore the adjacent museum.

The former Courthouse building is now home to a collection of local historical photographs and artefacts. The main courtroom has retained the judge’s bench and witness box among other original features.

A roll-top desk has pride of place in an adjoining room with a neatly scribed ledger showing receipts and payments.

In the music room, vintage instruments, sheet music and old vinyl records reflect a time when music was an integral part of the social scene.

As expected, mining memorabilia abounds along with specimens of gemstones and minerals.

Among all the fascinating items, my favourite is this child’s dress. Despite the pretty trimmings, it does look a might scratchy.

Waratah

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Our journey to Corinna took us through the former mining town of Waratah on the edge of Tasmania’s west coast wilderness. The plan was for lunch at the Bischoff Hotel, the only hotel remaining in the town. Originally built in 1879, it burned down in 1902 before being rebuilt and burning down again in 1909. The present Queen Anne style incarnation was completed later that same year.

The view from the hotel is spectacular, even on a drizzly day

and the waterfall in the middle of town flows all year round. The water provided vital power to the mine directly through a series of seven water wheels and was later piped to the Waratah Power Station to produce hydro power.

With some time to spare before dining, we set out to explore. The Waratah Post Office opened in 1882 and the current building replaced the original in 1913. It has been lovingly restored and is now available as luxury holiday accommodation.

We made our way to the lake and came across an old waterwheel and pump house near what appeared to be an old entrance for the mine carts.

As we entered the town, we noticed how immaculate the public lawns and gardens were kept. Lake Waratah is a beautiful centrepiece.

I have never seen a colony of masked lapwings in these numbers, they have chosen a lovely spot to call home.

We took a closer look at the iron truss rail bridge, built over the Waratah River in 1895, essential for getting people and supplies to Waratah and getting the ore out.

Waratah is known as one of the last bastions of the thylacine, thought by some to be extinct. We are ever hopeful of proving this theory wrong, it seems we are not alone.

The Athenaeum Hall is a very impressive building completed in 1887 when the town was enjoying the economic prosperity provided by the tin mine. Built for the workers and families, it started as a library and later became the town hall and cinema. Today, it is home to the Tarkine Visitor Interpretation Centre and is still used for functions.

Across the road, the Waratah Museum occupies in the old Court House (that will be another post).

Despite a leisurely perambulation around the museum, we still had time for a walk to the bottom of the falls. The scarred landscape of the Mt. Bischoff mine loomed in the distance. Tin was discovered in the area in 1871 and by 1881, Mt. Bischoff was the richest tin mine in the world.  The mine closed in 1947 after seventy years of continuous production but open cut mining resumed in 2008. Three years later, with resources depleted, it again closed and the pit is now flooded.

The walking trail was enveloped by tree ferns and verdant native vegetation

and the waterfall was magnificent after steady spring rain.

Returning to the top of the falls, the Waratah River wends its way over the cliff and continues ten kilometres before merging with the Arthur River.

The Dudley Kenworthy water wheel is named after the gentleman who recognised the potential to harness the year round water supply, making Waratah the first industrial site in Australia to be lit by hydro-electricity.

After a substantial lunch of delicious fish ’n’ chips and a schooner of stout, we were ready to tackle the long and winding road to Corinna.