Tag Archives: history

Silver City

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Our journey on the Indian Pacific included some interesting off-train excursions. The first morning, we were supposed to arrive early in Broken Hill and watch the sunrise over the city from the lookout of the Miners’ Memorial. Unfortunately, the train was running an hour late and the sun had risen

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by the time we pulled into the station.

I had been looking forward to discovering Broken Hill after reading a wonderful book, ‘Silver Dreams’, by Pam Bayfield who grew up there. My first impression was the rear view of the Theatre Royal Hotel

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before boarding the coach for a tour of the town. The Theatre Royal Hotel was established in 1886

and within a few years there were seventy pubs to choose from. The Palace Hotel was originally a coffee house, built in 1889 by the Temperance Movement in an attempt to curb the drinking by the miners.

Within three years, the Palace became a regular drinking den and gained more recent infamy thanks to Priscilla, Queen of the Desert.

The ABC radio station was adorned with an impressive mural featuring some of the city’s best known personalities.

We passed the Pro Hart Gallery

and the house he had lived in, just next door.

The Igloo House, as it is affectionately known, was built for Pro Hart in the early 1980s, (also known as Cleavage Corner!).

The sun was casting a warming glow as we continued our tour, shining beatifically on Sacred Heart Cathedral

and the narrow gauge rail cars at the Sulphide Street Railway Museum.

We were surprised to see what appeared to be a mine shaft in the middle of town. The Kintore Headframe is a retired wooden headframe from the 1800s and was relocated to Kintore Reserve in 1984.

The Centennial Hotel was established in 1889. A favourite with the shearers, it closed in 1990.

The Trades Hall has been the home of the union movement in Broken Hill since it was built in 1905. It is the first privately owned Trades Hall in the Southern Hemisphere, built and paid for entirely by the people of Broken Hill.

We were driven to the top of the Line of Lode mullock heap, 54 metres above the city. The Miners’ Memorial building faces east-west, capturing the rising and setting of the sun. The walls are lined with the names of over 800 miners who lost their lives working in the Broken Hill mines.

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The old poppet head at the Line of Lode still stands

and there are far reaching views over Broken Hill and the outback beyond.

Our time in Broken Hill was brief and we soon boarded the train for a hearty breakfast

and a relaxing day enjoying the scenery.

Visit Pam’s website to find out more about her life and books. http://www.pambayfield.com.au/silver-dreams.html

Penrhyn Castle

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Leaving Caernarfon, we followed the Menai Strait northward with the Isle of Anglesey across the water to our left. The Menai Bridge was built to carry traffic between Anglesey and mainland Wales.

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Construction began in 1819 with the towers on either side of the strait, built using stone from Penmon quarry on the island.

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It was the first iron suspension bridge of its kind in the world, completed in 1826.

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We walked across the bridge, stopping to admire the view northward to the Irish Sea.

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We couldn’t resist a visit to nearby Penrhyn Castle.

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It’s not really a castle at all but a country house built to resemble a Norman castle.

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Created between 1820 and 1833, Penrhyn was built on the site of a 14th century manor house and is now owned by the National Trust.

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After exploring the gorgeous restored interior, we strolled through the grounds.

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The countryside was breathtaking, with views across Snowdonia National Park

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and north to Llandudno and the Great Orme.

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Whether you love or loathe the idea of a mock castle, you can’t help but be impressed by the workmanship.

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Caernarfon Castle

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Continuing northward through Wales, we stopped to admire the majesty of Caernarfon Castle. The original Norman castle on this site was replaced in 1283 when King Edward I began building his stone structure.

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The walls were built to suit the lie of the land which resulted in the internal grounds being shaped like a figure eight. The towers within the walls were not the usual round ones of other Edwardian castles but polygonal, each with a different number of sides.

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All were accommodation towers, the grandest being the ten-sided Eagle Tower. It has three turrets which were once decorated with stone eagles that have since weathered away.

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Walkways within the castle allowed for a closer look at the workmanship.

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From above we gained a different perspective of the towers

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and could really appreciate the expanse of the castle.

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The views of the River Seiont

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and harbour were captivating.

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I would love this pair of cannons for our driveway entrance.

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Long before there was a castle, the Romans built a fort nearby to defend the north Wales coast. Established around 78AD, Segontium held about a thousand soldiers.

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The fort was abandoned in the 4th century and there is not much left to see of the ruins.

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The stone was plundered and used to build King Edward’s Caernarfon Castle.

West Wales

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Following our exploration of Cilgerran castle, we found a lovely place for lunch in nearby Cardigan.

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I thought it would be nice to buy a cardigan in Cardigan, but I didn’t. Instead, we strolled along the River Teifi

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before continuing our drive north. Not far from Aberystwyth was our inviting B&B, Awel-Deg, at Capel Bangor.

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The views were stunning across the gorgeous Rheidol Valley.

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We walked to the Tynllidiart Arms for dinner

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and sampled ales brewed at the smallest commercial brewery in the world. Bragdy Gwynant is a five foot square former men’s toilet where, since 2004, beers have been brewed for the Tynllidiart Arms.

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The next morning, we detoured to Devil’s Bridge. There are actually three bridges built on top of each other, the oldest dating back to the 11th century. The stone bridge was then built in 1753 when the original became unstable and the most recent iron bridge was constructed in 1901.

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The bridge is at a point where, before reaching the River Rheidol, the River Mynach drops 90 metres down a steep and narrow ravine.

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As we descended the steps

the bridge rose above us.

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At the bottom, the water created wonderful waterfalls as it cascaded through the confines of the gorge.

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According to legend, the original bridge was built by the Devil. He was visiting Wales and came across a lady whose cow had wandered across the river and she couldn’t get her back. He offered to build a bridge in return for the soul of the first living thing to cross the bridge. The next morning, the lady returned but she tricked the Devil by throwing bread so her dog went across first. The Devil wasn’t happy and was never seen in Wales again.

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We continued our drive north through Snowdonia National Park, 823 square miles of stunning landscapes,

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as we headed for the coast.

Villa Reale di Marlia

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After a morning strolling around the grounds of Villa Grabeau, followed by another delicious Tuscan lunch, we found our way to Villa Reale.

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In 1806, the sister of Napoleon, Elisa Bonaparte Baciocchi, purchased the 16th century villa for her country residence.

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She also acquired other neighbouring properties, including Villa del Vescovo.

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The sweeping lawns and lake were breathtaking.

As we walked around the villa

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we discovered the Italian Renaissance garden

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and the abandoned inner courtyard.

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There were some surprising smaller buildings like the summer house

and chapel.

The nymphaeum (sacred place of the nymphs), is dedicated to the god Pan.

Built around 1580, the circular grotto has a domed roof with a single opening at the top.

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Nestling within niches in the interior limestone wall are the statue of Pan

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along with disturbing sea figures and gargoyles.

The art deco influenced Spanish Garden was created in 1924 when the park underwent restoration.

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The Palazzina dell’Orologio waited majestically at the end of the avenue

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as we made our way to the 17th century Lemon Garden where more than two hundred citrus trees surround four magnificent magnolias

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At one end, the fountain of the Three Graces is set in a semicircle of rustic mosaics.

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At the opposite end is a large fishpond bordered by a marble balustrade.

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Two statues of giants, representing the Arno and Serchio rivers, spill urns into the pond

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while Leda and the Swan keep watch from their niche.

We continued on to the atrium of the Green Theatre with it’s beautiful fountain

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and statues.

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A natural theatre formed by yew hedges, the Teatro di Verzura was created in 1652. The semi-circular stage has a series of wings 5.5m high and the spherical bushes at the front imitate footlights.

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Surrounding the grass stage are terracotta statues of Columbine, Pantaloon and Punchinello.

After a closer look at the 17th century Clock Palace,

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we descended the steps

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to the spectacular Teatro d’Acqua. Water pours from the mouths of five masks around the semi-circular pool,

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the Grotto fountain is a marvellous centrepiece.

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Statues of Jupiter, Saturn, Adonis and Pomona

overlook the pool and immaculate gardens beyond.

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In 2015 the Villa Reale Di Marlia was sold to a couple from Switzerland. The 18,000sq m building on 19ha of land is going to be turned in a luxury hotel.