Corinna

We recently ticked another item off our bucket list with a short stay at Corinna on the west coast of Tasmania. The gold rush of the early 1880s brought a flood of people to the area and Corinna was proclaimed a town in 1894 with a population of 2500. Within a few years, the gold deposits that could be easily worked were exhausted and the town declined in population when the Emu Bay railway to Zeehan was opened in 1900. The historic mining town is now a wilderness retreat set on three hectares surrounded by the Tarkine rainforest. The owners have restored and developed the buildings in heritage style to create a village atmosphere. We enjoyed a very comfortable three nights in “Hobbs” cottage.

Named in honour of explorer James Hobbs who led a party to the west coast of Van Diemen’s Land in early 1824, our level of comfort far exceeded that of poor Hobbs. I am always prepared that photos on property websites are more enticing than in reality but we weren’t disappointed. The open plan living space downstairs

and bedrooms upstairs

were even better than anticipated and the gas heater warmed the whole area without effort. The rainforest embraced the spacious back deck

and the front verandah was the perfect spot to share a platter and bottle.

We were happy to share our food with the locals, especially when one had a baby on board.

Corinna is totally off grid with solar power, rain and bore water and chemical free sewage treatment. Cooking, hot water and heating are powered by gas cylinders. Visitors are requested to take any rubbish with them when they leave, not a big ask to maintain the pristine environment. After settling in, a stroll around the village revealed remnants of times past.

The old butcher’s shop is now guest accommodation.

A light drizzle accompanied us as we wandered to the Pieman River at the edge of the property.

For those arriving at or leaving Corinna in a southerly direction, the Fatman Barge takes five minutes to cross the 130 metres to the other side of the river. It is the only cable driven vehicular barge remaining in Tasmania.

Although the cottage was equipped for self-catering, the Tannin Restaurant in the on-site Tarkine Hotel has a mouthwatering menu.

After a days adventure we would amble to the Ahrberg Bar and take up residence on the squidgy Chesterfield with a pre dinner beverage.

Moving on to the dining area, the meals were superb, all prepared using fresh Tasmanian produce. The only down side was, I didn’t have any room for the desserts on offer.

With no TV or Wi-fi (a blessing) it was back to the cottage for board games and bed.

Wacky Stays

I’ve always wanted to stay in a yurt and the opportunity to realise my dream arose in Kaikoura. I  stumbled upon Wacky Stays when searching for accommodation and, though tempted by the other five unique offerings on the property, I snapped up the yurt. It was obvious on arrival at the farm that this was going to be a memorable stay.

Our friendly host, Kevin, greeted us and showed us to our comfy nook and adjacent private bathroom.

The seven-metre Mongolian yurt was spacious and comfortable and could easily house a family.

The bathroom and fully-equipped outdoor kitchen had all we could need.

Each afternoon, guests are invited to join in the hand-feeding of the farm animals. Of course, we couldn’t resist that.

Unfortunately, we didn’t have the time to experience a llama trek but it would have been amazing to enjoy a walk with these majestic creatures.

The pigs were very entertaining

while the ducks and sheep had a little more decorum.

After finishing off the greens, some filled up on hay,

others preferred a snooze.

I’m pleased we had our own bathroom.

Our nearest neighbour was a 1940’s Bedford K series truck that has been converted to a Gypsy Caravan. There is a double bed above the driver’s cab, kitchen, lounge (with flat-screen TV) and onboard bathroom facilities.

On the far side of the truck, the restored Train Carriage, crafted from hardwood in 1889, has two bedrooms and everything needed for a self-catering holiday.

In a more secluded spot, the Colonial Wagon is perfect for a romantic getaway, with a super-king bed, cosy lounge area and outdoor kitchen.

A sleepout with two bunk beds provides combined accommodation for up to four guests.

Panoramic views of Mount Fyffe can be enjoyed from the outdoor bath.

There is also a lovingly restored Farmers Cottage and seven-metre wide Teepee on the property, perhaps we will investigate next time. Kaikoura is well known for its delectable fish’n’chips and we indulged, take-away style, with a bottle of Marlborough Pinot Gris to commiserate our wonderful holiday coming to an end.

The next day, early morning rays of Sol highlighted our peaceful surroundings

as our toast went up in flames due to an unforeseen gas leak. A fitting end to the aforementioned memorable stay.

Nelson

One of the reasons we included Nelson on our New Zealand itinerary was to visit the workshop of Jens Hansen, a must for any true fan of The Lord of the Rings.

Danish-born Jens moved to Auckland in 1952 and, after completing a jewellers apprenticeship, settled in Nelson with his wife and young son in 1968. He knew and loved The Lord of the Rings and was thrilled when approached, in March 1999, to design the fabled ring. Fifteen prototypes were submitted from which the final ‘movie ring’ was chosen. Forty variations of The One Ring were made for the filming, scaled for different scenes and sized to fit Hobbit or human fingers. Then there is the 8” version seen spinning and turning through the air in the prologue of the first film.

Sadly, Jens was diagnosed with cancer in 1999 and died in August the same year at the age of 59, never seeing his rings on screen. His legacy continues under the guidance of his sons and a remarkable team at the workshop.

Having made a very special purchase, we drove a few minutes out of town to the Grand Mercure Monaco Resort, our home for the next two nights.

Reminiscent of an English countryside village, the resort offers a range of accommodation from self-contained two bedroom cottages

to boutique hotel rooms. We had a stunning view of the Monaco Peninsula.

The guest lounge was cosy and comfortable

and we enjoyed a delicious dinner, as well as breakfasts, at the restaurant.

The grounds have been set up beautifully, with a peaceful lake enticing a variety of birdlife.

A short stroll down the road, The Honest Lawyer, exuding the charm of an English country pub, was the perfect spot to imbibe a pint of Guinness in the afternoon sun.

Perusing the menu, we decided to stay for dinner before a slow walk home as the sun was setting in spectacular fashion.

The next morning dawned crisp and clear, another day of adventures awaited.

Pumphouse perfection

As we left Pumphouse Point at the end of a wonderful sojourn in March 2019, we vowed to return for a winter experience. With one thing and another, it has taken three and a half years to realise the promise but we finally made it earlier this month. We had stayed in a room on the middle floor of The Pumphouse that first time, a wonderful feeling to wake up surrounded by water and endless nature. For a different perspective, we booked the Panorama Room in The Shorehouse, considered to be the best room on the property.

Living up to its name, the spacious room spans the entire side of The Shorehouse on the first floor and the huge windows embrace panoramic views across the lake and mountains beyond.

The larder was stocked with tempting goodies to enjoy for a picnic lunch or midnight snack and a hot sourdough loaf was only a phone call away.

Another reason we opted to stay on dry land is, we didn’t relish the idea of walking the 240m flume in rain, wind, ice, snow or any combination of these, to return to our bed in the evening. The inclement conditions that had accompanied our four hour drive abated for our arrival, we could just discern the snow-capped peaks beyond The Pumphouse.

All guests are invited to partake of pre-dinner drinks at 6pm in The Shorehouse lounge before randomly seating in the adjacent dining room. Three courses of fresh, locally sourced fare are served, complemented by your own choice of beverage from the honesty bar. The shared table occasion may not appeal to everyone but it makes for new acquaintances and lively conversation. We awoke the next morning to blue skies and a crispness of air that can only be breathed in the middle of nowhere in Tasmania.

Fuelled for some exercise by a hearty breakfast, we embarked on the Frankland Beaches walk. The 3km track meanders along beaches and glacial moraines as it  follows the shoreline of Lake St Clair, Australia’s deepest fresh water lake.

We warmed up with a hot chocolate and Drambuie chaser at Lake St Clair Visitor Centre before our return trek. Viewed from Cynthia Bay jetty, our destination was a mere speck in the wilderness.

Along the way, nature exhibited her artistic talents,

this tree is a sculptural masterpiece.

We assembled a picnic lunch from the larder and settled into the lounge to savour the surroundings as much as the food.

Michael insisted I endure an hour long massage, a relaxing indulgence that wasn’t on the menu when we last stayed. Once I had recovered, we wandered across the flume to The Pumphouse for a nostalgic reminiscence

before returning to freshen up for another evening of delicious food and interesting repartee with a different group of travellers. Our adventure was over far too soon and, even though the gloomy skies had returned, another day or two would have been very welcome. A three night weekend stay is next on the list.

Swinging Gate

With more than thirty two vineyards along the Tamar Valley Wine Route to choose from, it was a difficult task to narrow down those to visit within our limited time frame. Looking for something a bit different, we headed to Swinging Gate at Sidmouth. The vines were originally planted in 1985 and, then known as Buchanan Vineyard, the fruit was sold to various Tasmanian wineries but never had an identity of its own. Fifteen years later, the plot was sold and abandoned until horticulturalist Doug Cox and his wife Corrie purchased the vineyard in 2014 and set about resurrecting it. The name is in reference to the gates swinging open again for the first time in many years.

The old machinery shed has been converted to a quirky cellar door and adjoining day spa.

Wine dog, Nellie, is happy to receive attention from visitors, although I think a little too much of the good life has ended her modelling career.

The rustic interior was instantly welcoming, with mismatched tables and chairs offering the perfect setting for an informal tasting experience.

As it was only 10.30am, we had Doug’s undivided attention as he led us through the myriad wines on offer while sharing the background of Swinging Gate. With a 30 year career in horticulture under his belt, after purchasing the vineyard Doug taught himself the winemaking process. The first year was spent rejuvenating the vines and in 2015, they produced 5,000 bottles to celebrate the 30th vintage of the vines. It appeared as though the adjoining barrel room was furnished for a tipple and quiet contemplation at the end of the day.

Swinging Gate is not just a winery. In 2019 the first geodesic dome appeared amongst the vines, and there are now three dotting the landscape.

Offering the ultimate glamping experience, each 6 metre dome is furnished with a king-size bed and, as well as private ensuites, two of the domes have outdoor bathtubs. I have just added an item to our bucket list.