Silver City

Our journey on the Indian Pacific included some interesting off-train excursions. The first morning, we were supposed to arrive early in Broken Hill and watch the sunrise over the city from the lookout of the Miners’ Memorial. Unfortunately, the train was running an hour late and the sun had risen

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by the time we pulled into the station.

I had been looking forward to discovering Broken Hill after reading a wonderful book, ‘Silver Dreams’, by Pam Bayfield who grew up there. My first impression was the rear view of the Theatre Royal Hotel

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before boarding the coach for a tour of the town. The Theatre Royal Hotel was established in 1886

and within a few years there were seventy pubs to choose from. The Palace Hotel was originally a coffee house, built in 1889 by the Temperance Movement in an attempt to curb the drinking by the miners.

Within three years, the Palace became a regular drinking den and gained more recent infamy thanks to Priscilla, Queen of the Desert.

The ABC radio station was adorned with an impressive mural featuring some of the city’s best known personalities.

We passed the Pro Hart Gallery

and the house he had lived in, just next door.

The Igloo House, as it is affectionately known, was built for Pro Hart in the early 1980s, (also known as Cleavage Corner!).

The sun was casting a warming glow as we continued our tour, shining beatifically on Sacred Heart Cathedral

and the narrow gauge rail cars at the Sulphide Street Railway Museum.

We were surprised to see what appeared to be a mine shaft in the middle of town. The Kintore Headframe is a retired wooden headframe from the 1800s and was relocated to Kintore Reserve in 1984.

The Centennial Hotel was established in 1889. A favourite with the shearers, it closed in 1990.

The Trades Hall has been the home of the union movement in Broken Hill since it was built in 1905. It is the first privately owned Trades Hall in the Southern Hemisphere, built and paid for entirely by the people of Broken Hill.

We were driven to the top of the Line of Lode mullock heap, 54 metres above the city. The Miners’ Memorial building faces east-west, capturing the rising and setting of the sun. The walls are lined with the names of over 800 miners who lost their lives working in the Broken Hill mines.

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The old poppet head at the Line of Lode still stands

and there are far reaching views over Broken Hill and the outback beyond.

Our time in Broken Hill was brief and we soon boarded the train for a hearty breakfast

and a relaxing day enjoying the scenery.

Visit Pam’s website to find out more about her life and books. http://www.pambayfield.com.au/silver-dreams.html

rail recollections

This year we crossed another item off our bucket list. Having seen those TV programs of trans-continental train journeys, we thought how nice it would be to just relax on a train and be transported from one side of the country to the other. One Wednesday in August, we flew to Sydney to experience our own 4,352km rail odyssey. Arriving at Central Station early, the engine of the Indian Pacific was waiting patiently at the platform.

We checked in our luggage and walked into the city for some lunch. When we returned, the carriages lined both sides of the platform.

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We sipped beverages and nibbled canapés while being entertained for an hour or so prior to boarding.

We found our cabin

and made ourselves at home

as we left Central Station behind.

Once our carriage attendant had familiarised us with the routine and off-train excursions, we made our way along the corridor,

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through four carriages, to the Outback Explorer Lounge.

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Many an hour was whiled away and a few bevvies imbibed in the comfort of the lounge.

I finished the book on the journey and left it behind for others to enjoy. The superb meals were served in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant and it was a great way to get to know our fellow travellers.

While we were out, the cabin elves created a cosy bedroom.

There was only one thing left to do after a long day.

wistful walks

Poppy is usually accompanied on her walks by Michael but he has fallen victim to a nasty virus and so, Poppy has been taking me instead. We have been exploring the different paths and finding all sorts of interesting things. The morning mist as we start the River Walk is breathtaking

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and the forest is serene.

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Despite the lingering cold and wet, the spring flowers are trying their best.

I haven’t been along Spooky Path for a while. Soon after we moved here, I was walking this path with Poppy and was unnerved by the thumping sounds around me. Memories of the movie, ‘Predator’, whipped my nerves into a frenzy along with my imagination. Hence, Spooky Path was named. Where the path becomes swallowed by scrub, the valley drops out of sight to the Blythe River below and the ridge opposite seems so close.

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Poppy found some special newcomers in the forest.

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They grew very quickly and soon flew the nest.

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Down in the rainforest, the water is tumbling along in the stream

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and the manferns are lush with new growth.

On a damp morning

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we walked Pat’s Path, named for my sister who first discovered the path when she came for a holiday soon after we moved here.

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The views of the rainforest are stunning from this higher ground.

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After a while, the path disappears into the trees and we have to retrace our steps.

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You never know who you might meet on the way back home.

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Of course, Poppy is always ready to do one more path.

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Desert Park

The last day of our Northern Territory holiday had arrived and we made the most of it at Alice Springs Desert Park. The ridge of Alhekulyele (Mt. Gillen) is a stunning backdrop to the 3,000 acre park.

We arrived in time for the Nature Theatre show to be entertained with demonstrations of free-flying birds of prey.

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The bush stone-curlew stole my heart again.

The park has three re-created desert habitats to explore: Sand Country, Woodland and Desert Rivers. The Woodland habitat includes enclosures for dingoes

and kangaroos.

It was a bit early for the wildflowers but they were lending some bursts of colour.

The Desert Rivers habitat was full of life, from the magnificent perenties enjoying the sun,

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to the black cockatoos posing majestically in the trees.

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The waterholes were popular

while some preferred dry land.

We had the opportunity to learn more about the wedge-tailed eagle

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and he very kindly posed for a photo.

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The reptile house was home to some cute lizards

and snakes.

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The tawny frogmouth looked very regal.

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Our day at the Desert Park was amazing

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and we left with some very special memories.

Makers’ Workshop

Makers’ Workshop opened in Burnie in 2009 as a place to honour the history, makers, innovators and artists of northwest Tasmania. The building, although criticized by some, won the Tasmanian Architectural Award in May 2010.

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It is a marvellous place to wander and absorb the myriad resident artists and their creations. From hats and jewellery

to glassware

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and hand-painted silk scarves.

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There is an area set out to watch the artisans at work.

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The fantastic retail space showcases the work beautifully and makes it very hard to resist a purchase.

After all that hard spending, you can relax in the café with something delicious

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or take in the latest exhibition in the gallery.

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Both offer a panoramic view of West Beach, moody on an overcast day.

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The diverse produce of the northwest coast is proudly promoted, our world famous cheeses are irresistible.

We can learn about the local potato and poppy farming

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and see the exquisite workmanship of talented luthier, Maria Perez-Pulido.

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You can try your hand at making paper under the guidance of experienced paper makers. Many different fibres are used, including roo poo and wombat poo, apple pulp, lavender and rainforest leaves.

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The beautiful folios, journals, cards and paper products can be purchased.

There are numerous large papier mâché characters in various poses, created by artists Pam Thorne and Ruth Rees between 1996 and 2007.

This magnificent garment was made by Pam, patiently twisting sewing pattern paper into lengths of ‘yarn’ to then carefully knit a gorgeous jacket.

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The northwest coast of Tasmania has so much to offer. If you are passing, do drop in.

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