Geelong Waterfront

Since relocating to Tasmania in 2008 and enduring a very rough crossing of Bass Strait on the Spirit of Tasmania, our subsequent return trips to Adelaide have been by air. We decided to take our vehicle with us on our most recent visit and, with much trepidation, booked a day sail from Devonport. After a relaxing eleven hours on calm seas, we arrived in Geelong for two nights before embarking on an eight hour drive to Adelaide. We ventured out for a stroll along the waterfront to discover the many attractions, from heritage structures to modern works of art. We first noticed a collection of objects, resembling shark-fins, randomly scattered on the foreshore. The art installation ‘North North’ comprises seven (only five pictured) 2 to 3.5 metre high cement fins, all positioned on a different plane.

The Floating Christmas Tree is an annual feature of the city, with the initial lighting on the night of ‘Carols By The Bay’ at the end of November. It didn’t look particularly bright on this overcast morning but the nightly Sound and Light Shows, running for 6 minutes every 15 minutes, are apparently quite spectacular.

We were a bit befuddled to see the Spirit of Tasmania moored in the harbour until we realised it is one of the new ships. Version IV is awaiting upgrades to the intended berth after it was discovered the wharf was not strong enough!

We set off across Steampacket Gardens, a lovely verdant open space named for the steamships that once docked in the area.

Following the path along the waters edge, we looked back at Cunningham Pier, stretching 250 metres into Corio Bay. Now commonly used as a fishermen’s pier, it was once part of the Geelong port system. The building at the end of the pier houses a restaurant and function centre.

We continued on, past the Royal Geelong Yacht Club marina and club rooms. Their first regatta ran in 1859 and they now host Australia’s largest regatta, the Festival of Sails.

For those unable to enjoy the walk, the Eastern Beach Train provides a 20 minute return trip along the waterfront

and the Giant Sky Wheel offers a different perspective.

Once past the yacht club,

the pathway bisects the white sands of Eastern Beach and the eye-aching green of Eastern Beach Reserve.

Much of the redevelopment of the east end of Eastern Beach was undertaken in the 1930s to promote tourism. The most striking addition is a huge swimming enclosure (I’ll get to that), a shallow children’s pool complete with fountain in the centre

and iconic ‘Spanish Steps’ rising to Eastern Beach Road above.

A classic red brick Art Deco building serves as a kiosk with a fine dining restaurant on the upper level.

Back to the swimming enclosure. A double platform wooden structure sweeps in a half circle around eight and a half acres of seawater. Protected by shark-proof netting, there is a lap pool, diving tower, floating islands and lifeguards on duty in high season.

The boardwalk was rejuvenated in 1993 and locals were encouraged to buy planks inscribed with their names to help fund the project.

The view westward from the promenade shows the extent of the waterfront precinct.

We returned to our starting point. I neglected to mention the glass building adjacent to the Christmas tree. It houses an original Armitage-Herschell steam-driven, hand carved wooden carousel with 36 horses and two ornate chariots. Built around 1892, it was purchased and restored in 1996. Unfortunately, we didn’t realise it’s importance and didn’t take a closer look which means we also missed the music from the 1898 Gavioli Band organ accompanying the ride.

With the skies becoming increasingly inclement, we left Cunningham Pier in search of lunch.

If you are planning a stay in Geelong, whether for a night or extended period, I highly recommend the wonderful apartment we found. It is in a perfect location just off Little Malop Street, with secure parking. https://www.rentbyowner.com/property/modern-apartment-in-central-geelong/BC-12939097

Pieman River

A leisurely way to experience the Tarkine Wilderness is to spend a few hours on the Pieman River aboard the heritage vessel, MV Arcadia II.

The 17 metre boat was built of Huon Pine in 1939 as a luxury pleasure craft based in Hobart. She was requisitioned to serve as a supply ship in New Guinea during the Second World War. Life became more peaceful as a scallop fishing boat on the east coast of Tasmania and then as a cruise boat on Macquarie Harbour and the Gordon River in 1961.

The Arcadia II has been cruising the Pieman River since 1970 and is the only Huon Pine river cruiser still operating anywhere in the world. A refurbishment in 2006 returned her to original pristine condition. I was hoping we had no need for the lifeboat.

We departed from Corinna at 10am on a moody, overcast morning.

Huon Pines dipped their pendulous foliage in the tannin hued water

as we rounded a bend, leaving Corinna behind .

The 434 metre peak of Mount Donaldson, part of the Norfolk Range, loomed in the distance

as we passed the confluence of the Savage River, ending its 71.7km journey.

A little further downstream, the Donaldson River also flows into the Pieman after a 54km course from its source.

We were hopeful for a sighting of the ever elusive platypus and, keeping our eyes peeled, we weren’t disappointed.

We would have missed the sea eagles nest if it hadn’t been pointed out by the skipper.

Enjoying the tranquility, we were served hot chocolate, cake and biscuits – what could be better?

As the skies cleared and the forest vegetation changed, we soon arrived at our destination.

Pieman Heads, where the Pieman River meets the Indian Ocean, marks the southern extremity of the Arthur-Pieman Conservation Area.

Breathing in the freshest air on Earth, we walked a few hundred metres from the boat and perched amongst the driftwood to savour our tasty packed lunch.

Strolling back an hour or so later, we came across an interesting structure. The Huon Pine timbers were recovered from the river in 2005 after spending forty years buried in silt and sand at the heads. They were part of the original Corinna barge, built in 1878, that transported prospectors, surveyors, livestock and general goods across the river using a cable and hand winch. From 1945, the barge plied up and down the river assisted by a power boat tied alongside. It’s life came to an end when, in 1964, it was washed away from its moorings in a flood and lost.

We returned to our more reliable form of transport

with nothing to do but relax and enjoy the ride.

The mysterious stairway along the river, not far downstream from Corinna, leads to Lovers Falls.

There is a shorter cruise on a smaller craft, (Sweetwater Cruise) that ties up at the stairs to enable a walk to the waterfall. The only other way to reach them is by kayak.

Arriving back at Corinna at 2.30pm, we had time for a short walk before bevvies and a delicious dinner at the hotel.

Moonlight Stories

Atop Table Cape, an extinct volcano rising 180 metres above the ocean in northwest Tasmania, is a heritage listed lighthouse. Each weekend evening throughout the month of July, the structure becomes the centrepiece for a stunning visual and auditory light experience.

Moonlight Stories is one of a series of events, collectively known as Permission to Trespass, presented during our Tasmanian winter. Other events, offering exclusive access to private properties in the stunning Wynyard and Table Cape areas, include long table feasts, creative workshops and secret whisky tastings. As the volunteer contingent for one Saturday show, we arrived before dark to arrange a few hay bales with blankets for seating and prepared the headsets to hand out to the anticipated crowds. With three shows of ten minutes duration and twenty minutes between shows, there was no time to rest. Fortunately, we were able to enjoy the final session of the evening.

Inner Light is the work of Tasmanian artist, Alex Moss, who encourages discovery and challenges perceptions through projected light, sound design and interactive elements. We took a few photos, though they don’t really convey the true spectacle of the visual revelation on the 25 metre high tower, and of course, the narration is absent. At times, the wall of the lighthouse appeared to crack and fall away, revealing colourful images beneath. (Click on the images to see enlarged version).

possum proofing

When we decided to plant a micro vineyard two years ago, we didn’t really anticipate the devious, destructive determination of the local possum population. Despite four lines of electric fence, to a height of 1.4 metres, delivering 5,000 volts to any unsuspecting creature coming into contact with it, the pesky possums continued to make ingress. They managed to elude the motion detection cameras we set up, denying us any hope of targeting their entry points. We tried using bird spikes without success and finally conceded the only solution was to create a ‘floppy fence’ around the whole perimeter. I had my reservations about this due to the aesthetics, especially on the garden side but we had no choice. We started on the fence line along the paddock so we could modify our system, depending on the outcome, before getting to the garden line.

We came up with the idea of using the electric fence outriggers we had stashed in the shed to support the wire.

The usual level of swearage ensued as we fought with the wire and wind but the result is actually quite neat.

The second paddock line followed

and we turned our attention to the garden side. We opted for a firmer wire for the sake of neatness but stayed with our method using the outriggers.

I have to admit, it doesn’t look as ugly as I thought it would.

We did the same for the line along the driveway,

joined them at the corner and then finished the gates in the same way.

I am very pleased to report there has been no evidence of possum pandemonium since completion and hopefully, after pruning the vines this winter, we will see substantial growth in spring.

Waratah museum

Driving through Waratah on our way to Corinna, we spied an interesting rustic cabin. We stopped to investigate and found Philosopher Smith’s hut, a replica of a typical miner’s hut from the late 1800s.

James ‘Philosopher’ Smith is credited with the discovery of tin at Mount Bischoff and the founding of Waratah in 1871.

The interior was less than comfortable and displayed the equipment a prospector would have used when searching for minerals in the 1870s.

With time to spare before lunch, we moved on to explore the adjacent museum.

The former Courthouse building is now home to a collection of local historical photographs and artefacts. The main courtroom has retained the judge’s bench and witness box among other original features.

A roll-top desk has pride of place in an adjoining room with a neatly scribed ledger showing receipts and payments.

In the music room, vintage instruments, sheet music and old vinyl records reflect a time when music was an integral part of the social scene.

As expected, mining memorabilia abounds along with specimens of gemstones and minerals.

Among all the fascinating items, my favourite is this child’s dress. Despite the pretty trimmings, it does look a might scratchy.