Tag Archives: beach

Geelong Waterfront

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Since relocating to Tasmania in 2008 and enduring a very rough crossing of Bass Strait on the Spirit of Tasmania, our subsequent return trips to Adelaide have been by air. We decided to take our vehicle with us on our most recent visit and, with much trepidation, booked a day sail from Devonport. After a relaxing eleven hours on calm seas, we arrived in Geelong for two nights before embarking on an eight hour drive to Adelaide. We ventured out for a stroll along the waterfront to discover the many attractions, from heritage structures to modern works of art. We first noticed a collection of objects, resembling shark-fins, randomly scattered on the foreshore. The art installation ‘North North’ comprises seven (only five pictured) 2 to 3.5 metre high cement fins, all positioned on a different plane.

The Floating Christmas Tree is an annual feature of the city, with the initial lighting on the night of ‘Carols By The Bay’ at the end of November. It didn’t look particularly bright on this overcast morning but the nightly Sound and Light Shows, running for 6 minutes every 15 minutes, are apparently quite spectacular.

We were a bit befuddled to see the Spirit of Tasmania moored in the harbour until we realised it is one of the new ships. Version IV is awaiting upgrades to the intended berth after it was discovered the wharf was not strong enough!

We set off across Steampacket Gardens, a lovely verdant open space named for the steamships that once docked in the area.

Following the path along the waters edge, we looked back at Cunningham Pier, stretching 250 metres into Corio Bay. Now commonly used as a fishermen’s pier, it was once part of the Geelong port system. The building at the end of the pier houses a restaurant and function centre.

We continued on, past the Royal Geelong Yacht Club marina and club rooms. Their first regatta ran in 1859 and they now host Australia’s largest regatta, the Festival of Sails.

For those unable to enjoy the walk, the Eastern Beach Train provides a 20 minute return trip along the waterfront

and the Giant Sky Wheel offers a different perspective.

Once past the yacht club,

the pathway bisects the white sands of Eastern Beach and the eye-aching green of Eastern Beach Reserve.

Much of the redevelopment of the east end of Eastern Beach was undertaken in the 1930s to promote tourism. The most striking addition is a huge swimming enclosure (I’ll get to that), a shallow children’s pool complete with fountain in the centre

and iconic ‘Spanish Steps’ rising to Eastern Beach Road above.

A classic red brick Art Deco building serves as a kiosk with a fine dining restaurant on the upper level.

Back to the swimming enclosure. A double platform wooden structure sweeps in a half circle around eight and a half acres of seawater. Protected by shark-proof netting, there is a lap pool, diving tower, floating islands and lifeguards on duty in high season.

The boardwalk was rejuvenated in 1993 and locals were encouraged to buy planks inscribed with their names to help fund the project.

The view westward from the promenade shows the extent of the waterfront precinct.

We returned to our starting point. I neglected to mention the glass building adjacent to the Christmas tree. It houses an original Armitage-Herschell steam-driven, hand carved wooden carousel with 36 horses and two ornate chariots. Built around 1892, it was purchased and restored in 1996. Unfortunately, we didn’t realise it’s importance and didn’t take a closer look which means we also missed the music from the 1898 Gavioli Band organ accompanying the ride.

With the skies becoming increasingly inclement, we left Cunningham Pier in search of lunch.

If you are planning a stay in Geelong, whether for a night or extended period, I highly recommend the wonderful apartment we found. It is in a perfect location just off Little Malop Street, with secure parking. https://www.rentbyowner.com/property/modern-apartment-in-central-geelong/BC-12939097

Johnson’s Beach

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At the end of another winter, thoughts turn to warmer days, sunshine and walks along the beach. Just a 10 minute drive from us is the peaceful Johnson’s Beach at Penguin. Apparently, it is named after a certain Mr. Johnson who lived at the end of Clerke Street near the beach but he remains a mystery.

A stroll along the shore reveals art installations with a difference, courtesy of the artist in residence, Mother Nature. Magnificent rocks of all shapes and sizes are coloured with myriad earthy hues.

Subtle brush strokes and feathering etch the sand, following the retreating tide.

Smooth vanilla mounds are drizzled with raspberry coulis

and diamonds sparkle on a watercolour background.

Elegant accessories have been discarded flippantly, awaiting a seat at the next salty soiree .

Returning to reality…. Spring isn’t far away and a drive to Penguin for a meander along Johnson’s Beach followed by a leisurely lunch is high on the agenda.

The Store

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We were looking forward to exploring Marlborough wine country on our way to Blenheim but, sadly, early morning is not the time for winery visits. We indulged instead in a leisurely coffee and cake stop somewhere amidst the eye popping countryside. Another hour down the road, we came across The Store at Kēkerengū, perfect timing for lunch.

First established in 1994 as a tearooms and garage, The Store was transformed twenty years ago into the restaurant, café and gift shop it is today. There are options for indoor and outdoor dining

and a stroll around the grounds revealed a thriving kitchen garden.

Despite the overcast skies, we opted for a seat in the fresh air at the top of the stairs,

with a front row view of the Pacific Ocean and resident seals preening on the sand.

Beachfront campsites are available with mountain views and secluded bays from which to enjoy East Coast sunrises.

Tempting though it was to partake in a stroll along the beach

or a short post-prandial nap,

it was time to continue the journey to our next destination, Kaikōura.

Dawn Gathering

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Two years ago, we attended the opening of the biennial Ten Days on the Island festival on the beach at Devonport. This year, we gathered just before dawn, on the pataway/Burnie foreshore to celebrate mapali.

Following a Welcome to Country ceremony, Dave manganeer Gough took us on a journey to the beginning of time and the creation of the first palawa or Tasmanian Aborigine. As the beat of Taiko drums bounced off nearby rocks

we learned that moinee, the great creator, came down the sky bridge, the Milky Way to lutruwitta/Tasmania, collected some soil and ochre and took it back into the sky. There, he formed the first palawa and sent him down the sky bridge back to lutruwitta. Unfortunately, he had legs with no knee joints and the tail of a kangaroo and was unable to sit or lie down.

On hearing the pleas from palawa to help him, moinee sent down his brother, drumadeene the star spirit,

who cut off his tail, rubbing animal fat into the wound for healing and gave him knee joints.

There was much rejoicing,

fires were lit

and a trio of dancers performed to the beat of more drums.

A penguin rookery inflated in front of the drummers

and the penguins cavorted on the sand before retreating in fear from the humans.

Another story followed, that of a young warrior, niyakara, who leaves his village to hunt tara/kangaroo. He sees the village women collecting maireener shells at the water’s edge

and three warriors he doesn’t recognise are watching them.

Assuming they are up to no good, niyakara gives chase but their running strides become bounces and the three transform into kangaroos and bound away.

Three large flags, signifying the strong connection of the palawa and tara, fluttered in the light breeze

as the fires diminished and celebrations came to an end.

A few days later, we visited Makers’ Workshop to see the exhibition, Making mapali. Hundreds of artists and collaborators, along with Goldberg Aberline Studio, worked for months to bring the event to life, it was fascinating to see the detail and hours of work involved. Community participants developed abstract sketches inspired by the night sky for the sky bridge lanterns. The drawings were then digitally overlayed in Photoshop to create the unique Milky Way design.

Even the firesticks are a work of art. Made from paperbark, wattle, native grass, eucalypt leaves, banksia nut, moss and reed pods they were used carry fire, see at night and ward off bad spirits.

The inflatable penguin rookery was most impressive with colours of the rocky North West shoreline, reflection of light across Bass Strait, native grasses and penguin feathers representing an abstract interpretation of the coastline. The Goldberg Aberline Studio hand-painted the circular sample fabrics and enlarged penguin feather, then photographed and printed them onto 500 metres of fabric that has been sewn together and hand-finished.

maireener shells, also known as rainbow kelp shells, are used by Tasmanian Aboriginal women to make traditional necklaces.

The tara flags were created using a similar process to the sky bridge lanterns, combining drawings by students from Parklands High School to express the movement of the tara as well as the transformation of tara to palawa.

Bayviews birthday

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One consolation of having another birthday is the excuse for a return visit to our favourite restaurant, Bayviews, overlooking Burnie foreshore. After ordering a bottle of Josef Chromy pinot gris, we were presented with a tempter of trevalla sashimi with lemon & lime dressing in lettuce cups.

Hopeful of a spectacular sunset, the evening sky was too clear and there was nothing but calm waters across Bass Strait.

The view was forgotten as entrée arrived; pepperberry and beetroot cured salmon with pickled vegetables, gin & lime sorbet, avocado mousse, horseradish cream & sumac for me

and lemon pepper dusted southern calamari with a salad of fresh vegetables, bean shoots, herbs & roasted peanuts, horseradish mousse & house made sweet chilli sauce for M.

A delicious palate cleanser of rose, honey & apple jelly

preceded the main course. I couldn’t resist the rolled belly of Scottsdale pork with cauliflower & truffle oil velouté, Joseph Chromy pinot gris poached apples, dehydrated pork skin & fennel remoulade.

M opted for a succulent chargrilled eye fillet served with a potato, mustard seed & aged parmesan croquette, wilted baby spinach, tempura onion rings & red wine jus. A side dish of steamed greens with burnt butter dressing completed a perfect feast.

We had no room to spare in the dessert stomach, we will make up for that next time.