At the end of another winter, thoughts turn to warmer days, sunshine and walks along the beach. Just a 10 minute drive from us is the peaceful Johnson’s Beach at Penguin. Apparently, it is named after a certain Mr. Johnson who lived at the end of Clerke Street near the beach but he remains a mystery.
A stroll along the shore reveals art installations with a difference, courtesy of the artist in residence, Mother Nature. Magnificent rocks of all shapes and sizes are coloured with myriad earthy hues.
Subtle brush strokes and feathering etch the sand, following the retreating tide.
Smooth vanilla mounds are drizzled with raspberry coulis
and diamonds sparkle on a watercolour background.
Elegant accessories have been discarded flippantly, awaiting a seat at the next salty soiree .
Returning to reality…. Spring isn’t far away and a drive to Penguin for a meander along Johnson’s Beach followed by a leisurely lunch is high on the agenda.
We were looking forward to exploring Marlborough wine country on our way to Blenheim but, sadly, early morning is not the time for winery visits. We indulged instead in a leisurely coffee and cake stop somewhere amidst the eye popping countryside. Another hour down the road, we came across The Store at Kēkerengū, perfect timing for lunch.
First established in 1994 as a tearooms and garage, The Store was transformed twenty years ago into the restaurant, café and gift shop it is today. There are options for indoor and outdoor dining
and a stroll around the grounds revealed a thriving kitchen garden.
Despite the overcast skies, we opted for a seat in the fresh air at the top of the stairs,
with a front row view of the Pacific Ocean and resident seals preening on the sand.
Beachfront campsites are available with mountain views and secluded bays from which to enjoy East Coast sunrises.
Tempting though it was to partake in a stroll along the beach
or a short post-prandial nap,
it was time to continue the journey to our next destination, Kaikōura.
Two years ago, we attended the opening of the biennial Ten Days on the Island festival on the beach at Devonport. This year, we gathered just before dawn, on the pataway/Burnie foreshore to celebrate mapali.
Following a Welcome to Country ceremony, Dave manganeer Gough took us on a journey to the beginning of time and the creation of the first palawa or Tasmanian Aborigine. As the beat of Taiko drums bounced off nearby rocks
we learned that moinee, the great creator, came down the sky bridge, the Milky Way to lutruwitta/Tasmania, collected some soil and ochre and took it back into the sky. There, he formed the first palawa and sent him down the sky bridge back to lutruwitta. Unfortunately, he had legs with no knee joints and the tail of a kangaroo and was unable to sit or lie down.
On hearing the pleas from palawa to help him, moinee sent down his brother, drumadeene the star spirit,
who cut off his tail, rubbing animal fat into the wound for healing and gave him knee joints.
There was much rejoicing,
fires were lit
and a trio of dancers performed to the beat of more drums.
A penguin rookery inflated in front of the drummers
and the penguins cavorted on the sand before retreating in fear from the humans.
Another story followed, that of a young warrior, niyakara, who leaves his village to hunt tara/kangaroo. He sees the village women collecting maireener shells at the water’s edge
and three warriors he doesn’t recognise are watching them.
Assuming they are up to no good, niyakara gives chase but their running strides become bounces and the three transform into kangaroos and bound away.
Three large flags, signifying the strong connection of the palawa and tara, fluttered in the light breeze
as the fires diminished and celebrations came to an end.
A few days later, we visited Makers’ Workshop to see the exhibition, Making mapali. Hundreds of artists and collaborators, along with Goldberg Aberline Studio, worked for months to bring the event to life, it was fascinating to see the detail and hours of work involved. Community participants developed abstract sketches inspired by the night sky for the sky bridge lanterns. The drawings were then digitally overlayed in Photoshop to create the unique Milky Way design.
Even the firesticks are a work of art. Made from paperbark, wattle, native grass, eucalypt leaves, banksia nut, moss and reed pods they were used carry fire, see at night and ward off bad spirits.
The inflatable penguin rookery was most impressive with colours of the rocky North West shoreline, reflection of light across Bass Strait, native grasses and penguin feathers representing an abstract interpretation of the coastline. The Goldberg Aberline Studio hand-painted the circular sample fabrics and enlarged penguin feather, then photographed and printed them onto 500 metres of fabric that has been sewn together and hand-finished.
maireener shells, also known as rainbow kelp shells, are used by Tasmanian Aboriginal women to make traditional necklaces.
The tara flags were created using a similar process to the sky bridge lanterns, combining drawings by students from Parklands High School to express the movement of the tara as well as the transformation of tara to palawa.
One consolation of having another birthday is the excuse for a return visit to our favourite restaurant, Bayviews, overlooking Burnie foreshore. After ordering a bottle of Josef Chromy pinot gris, we were presented with a tempter of trevalla sashimi with lemon & lime dressing in lettuce cups.
Hopeful of a spectacular sunset, the evening sky was too clear and there was nothing but calm waters across Bass Strait.
The view was forgotten as entrée arrived; pepperberry and beetroot cured salmon with pickled vegetables, gin & lime sorbet, avocado mousse, horseradish cream & sumac for me
and lemon pepper dusted southern calamari with a salad of fresh vegetables, bean shoots, herbs & roasted peanuts, horseradish mousse & house made sweet chilli sauce for M.
A delicious palate cleanser of rose, honey & apple jelly
preceded the main course. I couldn’t resist the rolled belly of Scottsdale pork with cauliflower & truffle oil velouté, Joseph Chromy pinot gris poached apples, dehydrated pork skin & fennel remoulade.
M opted for a succulent chargrilled eye fillet served with a potato, mustard seed & aged parmesan croquette, wilted baby spinach, tempura onion rings & red wine jus. A side dish of steamed greens with burnt butter dressing completed a perfect feast.
We had no room to spare in the dessert stomach, we will make up for that next time.
Our first day in Auckland dawned bright and sunny and we decided a ticket for the Hop On Hop Off bus was the best way to see the sights. Departing from Sky Tower, just down the road from our apartment, we were surprised by the amount of traffic and roadworks in Auckland. A huge extension to the waterfront precinct began last December, we weren’t enticed by the crowded construction site and remained on the bus as it travelled along Tamaki Drive on the way to Bastion Point. The views across Waitematā Harbour from the upper deck were breathtaking,
the city clearly visible, looking back across the water.
The volcanic cone of Maungauika forms the headland that is North Head Reserve, adjacent to the harbourside suburb of Devonport. There are underground tunnels and old gun emplacements to explore at the former military defence installation.
The symmetrical cone of Rangitoto Island is the youngest and largest volcano in the Auckland field, emerging a mere 600 years ago.
We alighted at Bastion Point to wander around the Michael Joseph Savage Memorial Park. Set on 49 hectares, the landscaped gardens, sunken pool and obelisk are a memorial to New Zealand’s first Labour Prime Minister.
In office from 1935 until his death in 1940, Michael Savage is recognised as the founder of the Welfare State as well as creating a political alliance with the Māori Rātana movement.
The gardens are immaculate, designed by two Auckland architects who won a national competition to design the memorial in 1941.
This site of a former gun emplacement affords a spectacular view of Auckland Harbour Bridge.
We walked the steep path and steps from Bastion Point to Mission Bay, a popular beach with calm waters and plenty of cafes and bars.
We had a different perspective of Devonport and North Head from the beach.
At the bottom of the steps, there are a series of beautiful pebble mosaics but no explanatory signage. I have since discovered the origin of this art, you can read about it here.
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