Silver City

Our journey on the Indian Pacific included some interesting off-train excursions. The first morning, we were supposed to arrive early in Broken Hill and watch the sunrise over the city from the lookout of the Miners’ Memorial. Unfortunately, the train was running an hour late and the sun had risen

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by the time we pulled into the station.

I had been looking forward to discovering Broken Hill after reading a wonderful book, ‘Silver Dreams’, by Pam Bayfield who grew up there. My first impression was the rear view of the Theatre Royal Hotel

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before boarding the coach for a tour of the town. The Theatre Royal Hotel was established in 1886

and within a few years there were seventy pubs to choose from. The Palace Hotel was originally a coffee house, built in 1889 by the Temperance Movement in an attempt to curb the drinking by the miners.

Within three years, the Palace became a regular drinking den and gained more recent infamy thanks to Priscilla, Queen of the Desert.

The ABC radio station was adorned with an impressive mural featuring some of the city’s best known personalities.

We passed the Pro Hart Gallery

and the house he had lived in, just next door.

The Igloo House, as it is affectionately known, was built for Pro Hart in the early 1980s, (also known as Cleavage Corner!).

The sun was casting a warming glow as we continued our tour, shining beatifically on Sacred Heart Cathedral

and the narrow gauge rail cars at the Sulphide Street Railway Museum.

We were surprised to see what appeared to be a mine shaft in the middle of town. The Kintore Headframe is a retired wooden headframe from the 1800s and was relocated to Kintore Reserve in 1984.

The Centennial Hotel was established in 1889. A favourite with the shearers, it closed in 1990.

The Trades Hall has been the home of the union movement in Broken Hill since it was built in 1905. It is the first privately owned Trades Hall in the Southern Hemisphere, built and paid for entirely by the people of Broken Hill.

We were driven to the top of the Line of Lode mullock heap, 54 metres above the city. The Miners’ Memorial building faces east-west, capturing the rising and setting of the sun. The walls are lined with the names of over 800 miners who lost their lives working in the Broken Hill mines.

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The old poppet head at the Line of Lode still stands

and there are far reaching views over Broken Hill and the outback beyond.

Our time in Broken Hill was brief and we soon boarded the train for a hearty breakfast

and a relaxing day enjoying the scenery.

Visit Pam’s website to find out more about her life and books. http://www.pambayfield.com.au/silver-dreams.html

Farewell Benabbio

The time had come to leave Benabbio. There were many things I would miss, the tranquility and beauty not least. I never tired of the mountains that surrounded us

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and the mesmerising mist that awaited when I opened the bedroom shutters in the morning.

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No matter where we wandered in the village, the mountains followed us.

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We were sad to say goodbye to beautiful Benabbio and our new found friends

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but there were more adventures awaiting us.

Gordon

While travelling with my sister when she was here on holiday, we followed the Channel Highway south from Hobart. The day was overcast and calm and we felt a contented peace as we meandered through the drizzle. We pulled over at Gordon, not realising the Foreshore Reserve is usually a popular camping spot.

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The boatshed and ramp were deserted and, apart from a couple of brave souls, there was no-one in sight.

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The subdued beauty of the D’Entrecasteaux Channel and Bruny Island beyond was breathtaking.

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The channel and island were named after Rear-Admiral Bruni D’Entrecasteaux who discovered them in 1792 while searching for missing fellow explorer, Jean François La Pérouse (he was never found).

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We were mesmerised by the ethereal silence that cocooned us

and reluctantly, we continued on our journey.

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Penrhyn Castle

Leaving Caernarfon, we followed the Menai Strait northward with the Isle of Anglesey across the water to our left. The Menai Bridge was built to carry traffic between Anglesey and mainland Wales.

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Construction began in 1819 with the towers on either side of the strait, built using stone from Penmon quarry on the island.

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It was the first iron suspension bridge of its kind in the world, completed in 1826.

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We walked across the bridge, stopping to admire the view northward to the Irish Sea.

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We couldn’t resist a visit to nearby Penrhyn Castle.

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It’s not really a castle at all but a country house built to resemble a Norman castle.

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Created between 1820 and 1833, Penrhyn was built on the site of a 14th century manor house and is now owned by the National Trust.

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After exploring the gorgeous restored interior, we strolled through the grounds.

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The countryside was breathtaking, with views across Snowdonia National Park

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and north to Llandudno and the Great Orme.

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Whether you love or loathe the idea of a mock castle, you can’t help but be impressed by the workmanship.

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rail recollections

This year we crossed another item off our bucket list. Having seen those TV programs of trans-continental train journeys, we thought how nice it would be to just relax on a train and be transported from one side of the country to the other. One Wednesday in August, we flew to Sydney to experience our own 4,352km rail odyssey. Arriving at Central Station early, the engine of the Indian Pacific was waiting patiently at the platform.

We checked in our luggage and walked into the city for some lunch. When we returned, the carriages lined both sides of the platform.

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We sipped beverages and nibbled canapés while being entertained for an hour or so prior to boarding.

We found our cabin

and made ourselves at home

as we left Central Station behind.

Once our carriage attendant had familiarised us with the routine and off-train excursions, we made our way along the corridor,

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through four carriages, to the Outback Explorer Lounge.

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Many an hour was whiled away and a few bevvies imbibed in the comfort of the lounge.

I finished the book on the journey and left it behind for others to enjoy. The superb meals were served in the Queen Adelaide Restaurant and it was a great way to get to know our fellow travellers.

While we were out, the cabin elves created a cosy bedroom.

There was only one thing left to do after a long day.